Monday, July 11th, 6:30 pm

Community Horticultural Education Series, Minnette Marr, Plant Conservationist, Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center, “Getting up close and personal  with the Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center’s Seed Collection Program.”

The public is invited to attend at no charge. Citizen Center, 209 SW Barnard,in Glen Rose, just off the square

(Preceded by Prairie Rose native plant review at 6PM)

by Zack Davis, Somervell County Texas A&M Agri-Life Extension Agent

Glen Rose – Believe it or not but Fall Gardening season is just around the corner. For some of us that procrastinated with a Spring Garden this is your chance to get your green thumb going again.

If your spring garden was productive the same location should work. If this is your first garden remember plants need 8 hours of direct sunlight. While preparing a new garden kill all the grass in the area with roundup, remove the grass and shovel area to 10-12 inches deep, then till.

Fall crops generally do better when beginning from transplants versus seed. The idea when establishing transplants in late summer is giving them plenty of water. Check soil moisture by forming a ball, if you can do that you’re in good shape with moisture.

Planting at the proper time is an important aspect of fall gardening. Glen Rose, TX is in Texas Gardening zone III if you choose to do further research. Some plants you could plant soon include:

Vegetables	Some Texas Varieties	Plant Date
Eggplant	Black Beauty, California White, Early Long Purple	Jul 1
Pepper	Bell: Camelot, Jupiter Hot: Jalapeno	Jul 1
Tomato	Small: Cherry Grande, Gold Nugget Medium: Amelia, Better bush	Jul 1
Pumpkin	Medium: Bumpkin, Howden, Jack O’Lantern	Aug 1
Southern Peas	Texas Pink Eye, California #5, Mississippi Silver	Aug 1
Winter Squash	Butternut types, cushaw, Royal	Aug 10
Lima Bean	Henderson Bush, Jackson Wonder, King of the Garden	Aug 20
Sweet Corn	Kandy korn, silver queen	Aug 20
Broccoli	Green magic, packman, premium crop	Sept 1
Brussels Sprouts		Sept 1
Cabbage	Bravo, Market Prize, Rio Verde	Sept 1
Cauliflower	Snow Crown, Snowball Y Improved	Sept 1
Cucumber	Slicer: Dasher II Sweet Slice Pickling: Calypso	Sept 1
Potato	Norland, Purple Viking, Beauregard, Jewel	Sept 1

Table 1.  Planting dates are specific for Texas Gardening Zone III. Varieties are examples, but consider contacting your local master gardener for information specific to Glen Rose, TX

Garden Problems

Any garden can have many problems including diseases, poor yield, and sunscald can result from improper watering habits. Watering can be enjoyable but it is important to do it correctly. Water thoroughly, soaking soil to 6 inches in depth when needed. This will help root development of the plants.  In Texas water applied once or twice a week for depth of 1-2 inches should be enough for most gardens. When determining to water, examine the soil, not the plants to see where you are at. If soil is dry at a depth of 1 inch it is time to water.

Insect and disease problems usually arise in gardens. It is important to identify the cause and correct it. It is important to protect your plants ahead of these problems. Spraying a pesticide label for garden use can be benefit. Be sure to read the label before you spray.

Nematodes can be a common garden problem. Symptoms of nematode damage cause plants to look wilted or stunted have pale green leaves and produce less yield. Infect roots swell and form knots a well. In fall gardens, solarize and pasteurize the soil in July by tilling it well and watering until it is very moist, then cover with clear plastic. Seal the edges and leave it in place for at least a month. Do not use black plastic because it won’t get soil hot enough. This process will help control nematodes, fungi, and weeds.

Harvesting

Harvesting at the optimum time will help your garden. Harvest broccoli when they are 4-8 inches in diameter, cut the stalk below the head, leaving 8-10 inches of stem and leaves, chill immediately. For Brussel sprouts watch for harvesting around 3 -3.5 months after transplant. The first harvest should occur before the lower leaves begin to turn yellow. Break off the leaf below the sprout and remove the sprout by breaking it from the stalk.  When the head of cabbage becomes solid and the top and sides cannot be pressed in. Mature heads often split open, you can delay harvest by twisting the plant and breaking several roots to lower water intake.

Harvesting Cauliflower is similar to broccoli with heads being between 4-8 inches in diameter. The yellow color of cauliflower is the exposure to sunlight. Cucumbers are harvested when they are bright, firm, and green, but not too large. 1 -2 in diameter is an ideal size. Do not store cucumbers in the refrigerator for more than two days. It is best to pickle them the same day they’re picked. Peppers can be harvested at 4-5 inches in length, wash and chill peppers immediately to keep them from drying out. Tomatoes can be harvested in pink stage and can be allowed to ripen in a warm area of the house. This can prevent damage from insects and birds.

For additional information on fall planting and harvesting, contact Zach Davis, AgriLife Extension agent in Somervell County 254.897.2809.

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Educational programs of the Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service are open to all people without regard to race, color, sex, religion, national origin, age, disability, genetic information, or veteran status. The Texas A&M University System, U.S. Department of Agriculture, and the County Commissioners Courts of Texas Cooperating

By Shirley D. Smith, Somervell County Master Gardener

Any questions we have about almost anything is now right at our fingertips if (and that is the key word here – IF) we know where to look.  This can open a Pandora’s box so let me see if I can’t narrow down your search somewhat.  Whether we like it or not (and I LOVE it), the computer is here to stay.  As a gardener, I have found some wonderful places to visit as I sit sipping my coffee on the back porch in the mornings and contemplating what to do next in my gardens.  The computer can be a great tool for any would-be, practicing or experienced gardener of any age.

In the past to get the information we sought, we would go to our own set of encyclopedias, magazines, plant books, etc. or make a trip to our local library to find answers to our questions – that is if, after asking a more experienced gardener, we still did not have the answer – very time consuming and often as not – not very productive.  Now, we can open our computer, smart phone or iPad and go from there.  To help in that search, here are some places I have found that you might want to take a look at.

Just plain old websites:

https://www.texasgardener.com – You will need to subscribe to this one to read all the articles or, if you have a paper subscription, you can use that to get online.  This is a very, very good source as it deals with Texas gardening only.  I have subscribed to this magazine in the past and found it very helpful.

http://www.klru.org/ctg – This is one of my favorites!  KLRU is a TV station in Austin and this website lets you view actual videos of past programs and it has a blog that is very interesting.  Be sure to check this one out thoroughly.

http://www.txsmartscape.com – Great website.  Don’t miss this one.

Here are ONLY 3 that I showed you.  I Googled “Central Texas Gardening” and, oh my, many, many websites came up.  You can do the same and what fun to look thru these!

Another source is YouTube. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCYeoakQzYz0mMEwzCL30h3A.   Be careful because you can get completely lost in so many videos and the first thing you know, two hours have past and hubby or the kids are hungry and there you sit!

I have recently found out about another source from my computer guru son called Podcasts (no, that’s not my son’s name – he’s James).  These are short “radio” programs on virtually any subject.  On my laptop I typed in:

http://whyy.org/cms/youbetyourgarden

www.newsradioklbj.com/media/podcasts/gardening-naturally  –  This one is Gardening Naturally with John Dromgoole.  “John Dromgoole hosts the longest, continuously running, organic gardening talk show in the United States. For the last twenty-five years on KLBJ AM 590, he has shared his passion and extensive knowledge of organic gardening. John’s main focus is protecting the environment while enriching the soil and growing healthier plants.”

These are just two of many, many podcasts out there.  Just do a little searching and you will be rewarded with many, many different gardening subjects.

On my iPad, I actually downloaded the Podcast app so I can now use that device to listen to gardening podcasts.  Just go to the App Store and type in “Podcasts” in the search box.  I downloaded the purple one just called Podcasts.  Then you can search for gardening podcasts from here.

Of course, you can always call your favorite Master Gardener or your local Extension Office, too!

I do hope this has been helpful and you try some of the above to further your gardening knowledge.

Happy Gardening!

Four members of the Somervell County Master Gardeners Association made the trek to College Station on Friday, June 17 for the Groundbreaking Ceremony for The Gardens at A&M. Shirley Smith, Donna Hagar, Julie Conner and Mary Ann Steele were among the many Master Gardeners from throughout Texas attending this momentous occasion. Having raised over $135,000 towards the naming rights of the Earth-Kind® Teaching Garden, Texas Master Gardeners were among many other founding donors embracing the beginnings of this incredible undertaking.

The Gardens at A&M is a 40-acre project that will be a public teaching garden and greenway focused on expanding Texas A&M’s research and outreach. There is the need to enrich lives by connecting people with the living world of horticulture. The importance of plants to life on earth is immeasurable. We depend upon them for the air we breathe, the food we eat, the shelter we need, and the medicine we can’t live without. Through our numerous programs and educational materials, guests can learn about ecosystems, growing food, growing plants, conserving water, and much more. In addition, recreation and events in our tranquil and eclectic landscapes will bring the community together. It will be a place where creativity sprouts, knowledge flourishes and Aggie roots run deep. The Gardens will be used to take research further and understanding wider.

 by Dr. Christine Morgan, ND, PSc. D 

It’s that time of year and cucumber beetles are once again wreaking havoc on tender cucurbit seedlings. They are my biggest nemesis growing winter squash and gourds. A bigger threat than the hated squash bugs that are so common with squash. In all stages of life, these beetles do damage to the cucurbit plant family including cucumbers, winter and summer squash, melons, pumpkins, and gourds. In addition to inflicting significant damage by feeding, these beetles add insult to injury by transmitting bacterial wilt along the way. While there is no easy solution to this problem, preventative measures and specific cultural practices can limit damage and bring an otherwise unruly pest under control.

Know Thy Enemy

The Cucumber beetle is a common name given to members of two genera of beetles, Diabrotica and Acalymma, both in the family Chrysomelidae.

The striped cucumber beetle (Acalymma vittatum) is a beetle of the family Chrysomelidae.

There are six species of cucumber beetle in the United States. Perhaps the most prevalent of these is the striped cucumber beetle, a member of the Acalymma genus. Measuring just one fifth of an inch long, this beetle is yellowish green with a black head and yellow thorax, and can be easily identified by three parallel black stripes running lengthwise on the wings of adults.

Cucumber beetles over-winter as adults in bordering vegetation, plant debris, and compost piles. As springtime temperatures climb, cucumber beetles are actively feeding on the petals and leaves of flowering plant hosts outside of the garden. When cucurbits are planted out into vegetable fields, migration of the striped cucumber beetle is swift. After feeding on seedlings, these adults mate, with females laying up to 1500 eggs each over the course of several weeks.

A Beetle’s Life and the Damage Done

In the south, up to three generations of striped cucumber beetles can be produced in one growing season, while the north generally sees only two. Cucumber beetles cause feeding damage three times during their life cycle. Over-wintered adults feed on the cotyledons and stems of emerging cucurbit seedlings. As the eggs develop, larvae tunnel into the soil and feed on plant roots. As second- and third-generation adults emerge, they feed on foliage, flowers, and stems, and can even damage mature fruit.

Fortunately, fully developed, healthy cucurbit plants can withstand 25-50% defoliation before yields are dramatically affected.

Far and away the greater threat posed by cucumber beetle infestation is the potential for transmission of bacterial wilt. Bacterial wilt is caused by the bacterium Erwiana tracheiphila, which is stored in the intestinal tract of adult cucumber beetles. Once a plant is infected, the Erwiana bacterium spreads rapidly through the vascular system of the plant, creating resins which restrict the movement of water and nutrients. This causes the plant to wilt and die, sometimes in as few as seven days.

Additionally, research has shown that cucumber beetles can be vectors for squash mosaic virus, as well as lead to an increased incidence of powdery mildew and black rot, and a predisposition to fusarium wilt.

Control Measures

Delayed Planting – Growers can avoid the most significant damage by simply delaying the planting of summer cucurbits by a few weeks. This tactic can also allow seedlings extra time to grow into vigorous, mature plants capable of withstanding beetle pressure. Some growers in the south with longer growing seasons opt to skip summer cucurbits altogether, instead planting cucurbits in time for a fall harvest when beetles are much less of an issue. Planting for a Fall harvest here means planting in August.

Cultivation and Residue Removal – As cucumber beetles can over-winter in crop residues both above and below ground, it is important to practice clean and thorough cultivation after fall harvests. Cornell University suggests deep hand tillage, compost application, and cover-cropping in the fall to encourage decomposition of residue which may harbor beetles through the winter months. Any diseased plant matter should be burned or otherwise discarded rather than composted for future use.

Mulching – Using straw, hay, plastic, or fabric as mulch can deter cucumber beetles from laying eggs in the ground near the plants. While mulching will not halt egg-laying or feeding, it will limit direct access to the stem, as well as significantly slow larval migration through the soil.

Row Cover – Floating row covers can be a big help by excluding cucumber beetles during the seedling stage of life. This allows plants to mature and develop substantive leaf mass and a strong root system, enabling the plant to withstand a moderate pest attack. Remove row covers at the onset of flowering to allow for adequate pollination. Since row covers foster weed growth too, many producers use weed suppressing mulches in combination with floating row cover.

Kaolin Clay – a bit of defensive strategy. A growing number of producers are using Surround, a type of kaolin clay, as a protective film to ward off early damage from striped cucumber beetles. Surround comes in a powdered form, which is then mixed with water and sprayed on the seedlings. Some growers choose to dip entire flats of seedlings into the mix, which coats the underside better than does a backpack sprayer. When the seedlings are planted out in the field, the clay acts as a sticky barrier to hungry cucumber beetles, causing what some call “excessive grooming”. This keeps the beetles busy when they would otherwise be eating your prized seedlings and searching for mates.

Trap Crops – Striped cucumber beetles have food preferences just like we do. There is a long list of cucurbit varieties that are favored by cucumber beetles, and are thus excellent trap crops. By luring cucumber beetles into a concentrated area, control measures can be focused, localizing the damage and limiting the spread of disease. We recommend using Baby Blue Hubbard Squash as a trap crop, as it is highly attractive to cucumber beetles, has particularly vigorous seedlings, and is less susceptible to bacterial wilt than many other squash varieties. Trap crops should be planted on the perimeter of the field in multiple rows if beetle pressure is particularly severe. We recommend planting trap crops a week or two earlier than your primary cucurbit planting to proactively direct migration.

Organic Pesticides – I use an organic pesticide mix to control them.

To 1 gallon of water: add ½ oz. Neem and ½ oz. Karanja oil + 2 t. insecticidal soap.

For 1 quart: 1t. Neem oil, 1/3 t. insecticidal soap + 4 drops each rosemary and lavender essential oil. Shake well, if oil is floating on top, add a little more soap; ¼ t. at a time. Spray in evening to protect tender new growth from burning.

Sources:

highmowingseeds.com; Wikipedia; Texas A&M University; Cornell University; North Carolina State University; www.neemresource.com

Talking Bees with Ag Day Students

by Zachary A. Davis, Somervell County AgriLife Extension Agent

Granbury – This past week I had the privilege of discussing bees with Ag day Students at Brawner Elementary in Granbury. This was a learning opportunity for me to gain more knowledge about the small insects that impact our way of life and are so important to the environment.

Bees are the only insects known that produce food for humans to consume. Some populations in other countries consume insects, but they do not have the production of a food source that bees do. Honey is one of the only food sources that could sustain human life; there is enough water, fats, and proteins to keep humans going.

In the Hive

Bees have a very organized colony structure. The most important bee in the hive is the queen. She controls the hive with pheromones and keeps the hive populated by reproducing 600-700 eggs a day. In some sources this number is even higher around 1000. Queens have a lot longer life span than most of the bees in the hive; they can live up to 5 years due to the rich royal jelly that they consume.

Male drone bees are the only males in the colony. They are about 5 % of the population and their only role is to help the queen produce eggs for reproduction of the hive. They don’t collect pollen and nectar, they don’t even have stingers. Once they mate with the queen they die shortly after due to the loss of vital organs during the mating process.

The last bees in the hive are the female worker bees that are the workforce of the hive. They represent 95% of the hive population. Worker bees work nonstop and never sleep. They have a short life span compared to the other bees in the hive. In the spring and summer they can live between 4 weeks to a couple months. Younger worker bees maintain the hive while older worker bees collect pollen and nectar.

 

Bees are responsible for the pollination of 80% of fruits, vegetables, and seeds that we consume.                                                                                                                             Recently, honey bee population has been decreasing and conservation groups have been looking into this issue.

 

For additional information, contact Zach Davis, AgriLife Extension agent in Somervell County 254.897.2809.

 

By Shirley D. Smith, Somervell County Master Gardener

 

As I look out on the many, many plants I have in my garden, it is really hard to pick out just one that I like over all the others.  However, there is probably one that stands out for me.  My Earth-Kind® Roses would have to be at the top of my list.  I learned about Earth-Kind® Roses when I joined the Somervell County Master Gardeners.  I had never even considered planting roses before because I thought they were just too much trouble.  However, after listening to some learned folks who raised Earth-Kind® Roses and knew about them, I changed my mind and decided to give them a try.  Oh, I am so glad I did!  I have planted at least 6 different types and they have done wonderfully for me.  I have forgotten the names of all of them but I do remember one that I like particularly and that is Belinda’s Dream.   It was the first rose to be designated Earth-Kind® by the Texas AgriLife Extension Service.  It is a beautiful pink shrub rose.  This particular rose can be grown in a pot, as a hedge or just by itself.  Mine has beautiful blooms (when the deer leave it alone) and they smell wonderfully!  It looks like what I think a rose should look like.  I do very little to my roses other than fertilize them once or twice a year (if I remember) and add a layer of compost around them in the spring.  If I have time (and feel like it), I will deadhead them, but for the most part they are on their own.  Of course, I give them supplemental water when the weather turns hot and dry.  But, these are tough roses and have been grown to be tough.  So, if you are like me and have not tried roses because of misinformation, then give these Earth-Kind® Roses a try.  You will not be sorry you did.  You can find out more about the Earth-Kind® Roses by looking them up on line or contact one of your local Master Gardeners.  We will be happy to share our knowledge with you and we have a lovely brochure on them you can have for free!