Planting

___ If annuals that were planted earlier in the year are looking tired, replace them with more heat tolerant annuals and/or tender perennials.

Under 2 feet: Bachelor’s  Button, Blue Daze, Celosia, Coleus, Dwarf Cosmos, Dahlberg Daisy, Dusty Miller, Gaillardia, Gomphrena,

Lantana, Marrigold, Mexicn Heather, Ornamental Pepper, Periwinkle, Portulaca, Purslane, Lady in Red Salvia, Scaevola, Wax Begonia, Zinnia

Over 2 feet: Butterfly Weed, Canna, Cigar Flower, Coasmos, Four-O-Clock, Hardy Hibiscus, Mexican Sunflower, Rudbeckia, Salvia such as Mealy Blue Sage, Shrimp, Plant, Sunflower

___ If you can find them at nurseries, plant Salvias now.  Many will put on a display of flowers in the fall.

___ Take a look around your property to decide if a shade tree would be desirable to plant this coming fall.

___ It’s time to plant the first of the fall vegetables.   Vegetables to plant in August: broccoli, Brussels sprouts, bunching onions, cabbage, cauliflower, Swiss chard, Chinese cabbage, collards, cucumbers, lima beans, mustard, snap beans, Southern peas, peppers, Irish potatoes, rutabagas, shallots, squashes, tomatoes, and turnips.

Care

___ Stake or tie up annuals and perennials that have become overly enthusiastic.

___ Trim longer stems from hanging basket house plants to encourage new growth in the pot, or coil stems into pot for a fuller look.

___ Trees and shrubs may be showing signs of heat stress.  Keep them deeply watered and mulch the area around them.

___ Take up vegetable crops that are finished and add them to you compost pile.  If you won’t be replanting the area, make sure to mulch 4-6 inches.  (Do not compost tomatoes that have southern blight.)

  Watering

___ If plants start to look wilted, you have waited too long to water.  Keep an eye on the weather!

___ Water vegetables as needed, not on a timer or schedule.  Don’t wait for rain!

Problems

___ Don’t let the summer heat keep you from weeding you garden.  Work in early  morning or in the evening when it is a little cooler.  Drink lots of water, wear a hat, and wear loose fitting clothing that keeps you covered from the sun.  A thick layer of mulch should help keep the weeds at bay.  If that is too late in your garden, plan on adding mulch as soon as the weeds are removed.

___ Blackspot continues to be a problem for roses.  Keep dead and yellow leaves cleaned up around the base of the rose bush.

When it comes to garden tools it seems we all have one or two that we use on a regular basis.  Whether it be the length of a handle, the curve of a blade, the weight, or the way it fits in our hand, there is just something about using a tool that is right for you.  One of my favorites is called a broadfork so named for the broad width of the tines not the width of the person using it-although if you know me, you know!  The fork is not an everyday tool, but when it comes time to clean up a garden bed it is a valuable asset.

One of my favorite tools.

A broadfork is used to loosen and aerate the soil while it also loosens weeds.  After harvesting vegetables and removing the spent plants, my soil is usually packed down.  I like to throw some compost on top then broadfork the area in both directions.  This practice leaves the soil loose and ready to for the next planting.

Step down on the top until the tines are sunk into the soil.

After pushing it down into the soil, you pull back on handles.

The broadfork leaves the soil light and fluffy. 

My husband and I debated for a few years as to whether or not a broadfork would work in our garden.  After giving it a try, we have found that not only is it perfect for our raised beds, but we also use it in the beds we are working to create on top of our limestone soil.  We are not able to push the tines in very far (only and inch or so in some places), but it helps break and loosen the soil before we add compost and mulch.

Broadforks and big, heavy, and relatively expensive, and they are arguably not for everyone.  We, however, love ours, and it has become a trusted and well-used part of our gardening routine.

Name

Donna Hagar

What year did you become a Master Gardener?

Joined the Somervell Master Gardeners as an associate in late 2005, took the training and certified in 2007.

Do you hold a position in the group?

Currently hold no office. Member of the Paluxy Heritage Garden Committee. Past President (2015) of the Texas Master Gardener Association.

What are your gardening special interests?

Vegetables, herbs, native plants

Is there a particular gardening book you enjoy?

While not specifically gardening, Wildflowers of Texas by Gayata Ajilvsgi began my obsession with native wildflowers and is by far my most well worn book!

Have you had a particular gardening success?

When we first moved to Somervell County in 2005, I would walk our roads and collect wildflower seeds. I scattered them into our landscape and many are still here.

What do you enjoy about being a Master Gardener?

The friendships and camaraderie with people who share a love of gardening. I enjoy being able to continually learn from fellow gardeners and from educational opportunities provided through the Master Gardener program. I enjoy being able to give that knowledge back through the programs and gardens at the local level.

Do you have a favorite plant?

Ha, depends on the day and season! Today it would be bluebells but always daisies!

If you have been hearing news about unidentified seeds being mailed to the US from China, take a look at the information from Erath County Extension Agent Lonnie Jenschke.

Planting

___ Warm-season annuals can be planted as transplants or directly sown into prepared soil.  Good seeds for planting now include amaranthus, cosmos, gaillardia, marigolds, portulaca, sunflowers, and zinnias.

___ Plant pumpkins for Halloween jack-o-lanterns.

___ Plant broccoli, cauliflower, and cabbage seeds for fall transplants.

Watering

___ Monitor carefully for watering needs.  Keep an eye on rainfall or lack of it.

Care

___ July is a great time to make regular strolls through your garden to regularly check for pests, weed problems, need for water, overgrowth to be pruned back or supported, and faded flowers to be removed.

___ Harvest garden vegetables every day to ensure they don’t get overgrown or diseased.

  Watering

___ Annuals in pots may need to watered twice a day.

___ Do not needlessly water lawns.  Wait at least 7-10 days to irrigate after a good rainfall.

___ Perennials and roses need to watered slowly and deeply to a depth of 4-6 inches.

___ Apply 1 inch of water at the drip line of trees if there hasn’t been rain in several weeks.  Continue to monitor newly planted trees, and water deeply as needed.

___ Water vegetable plants to a depth of 1 inch if rainfall has been scarce.

Problems

___ June weather brings problems with insects and diseases.  Make sure to monitor all plantings on a  regular basis for signs of trouble such as wilting, browning or yellowing, holes, and leaf curling.

___ Be on the watch for spider mites.  They are almost too small to be seen with the naked eye, but fine webbing is a sign of heavy infestation.

___ Be cautious about using weed killers on lawns.  High temperatures may cause damage after using pestici

 

___Month-By-Month Gardening in Texas by Dan Gill & Dale Groom