For thousands of years gardeners have wondered why planting beans and other legumes improves the soil.  Today we know why.   The plants are “infected” with a soil bacterium called Rhizobium.  This microscopic miracle beefs up garden soil with a shot of all-natural Nitrogen.  Here’s how it works, and how you can ensure Rhizobium is in your soil.

Rhizobium is present in most soils; however, years of chemical fertilizers, pesticides, and deep tilling may have caused a Rhizo Shortage.  Correcting the problem is easy.  You can infect your legumes yourself with commercial inoculants.  These inoculants are usually a fine powder and are applied to the legume seed just before planting.

The best way to inoculate legume seeds is the Slurry Method. Inoculant powder is mixed with water or a liquid “sticky” solution (e.g. 10-20% water mixture) to form a watery goo. Seeds are coated with this slurry just before planting.

IMPORTANT POINTS TO REMEMBER WHEN INOCULATING YOUR LEGUMES
– Select an inoculant recommended for the legume you are planting.
– Never use chlorinated water to mix the slurry.
– Plant seeds within 24 hours of inoculation.
– Keep soil moist.
– Buy fresh inoculant each year.
– Inoculate winter legume cover crop seeds such as clover and vetch.
  (Some pre-inoculated cover crop seeds are available)
– Never mix inoculants with fertilizers, pesticides, or lime.
– Store inoculants according to manufacture recommendations
– Do not expose inoculants to direct sunlight or high heat.
– Wash hands thoroughly after inoculating seeds.

Commercial Rhizobium inoculants are sold in most nurseries and seed houses. Some are called “Seed Inoculant” or “Soil Inoculant”. One major seed vendor calls their product “Pea and Bean Booster”. Whatever product you choose, Rhizobium will give your garden soil a cheap and natural Nitrogen shot in the arm.  And the good news – once the Rhizobium is in your soil it’s there to stay. 

Spring has sprung and planting time is here.  Now is the time to gussy up those landscapes; replace winter casualties; maybe try a new look here and there.

If more plants are in your future (and when are they not?), you’ll be spending lots of time at your favorite nursery, big box store, and, of course, the Somervell County Master Gardeners Spring 2025 Plant Sale on May 3. While you are out-and-about plant shopping here are some terms you’ll probably see.

Texas Superstar®
The Texas Superstar® program is a consortium of plant experts from Texas universities; TAMU AgriLife; commercial plant growers, and the Texas Department of Agriculture.  Members’ teams test plants for adaptability, deer resistance, water requirements, pollinator attraction and more in Texas eco-regions.  If you see a Texas Superstar® plant, you’ll know it has been tested by Texas experts. For more information see https://texassuperstar.com/.

Texas Native Plants
The U.S. Department of Agriculture definition of “native plant” is “a plant that lives or grows naturally in a particular region without direct or indirect human intervention.”  This means a Native Plant might be a plant that has thrived in a Texas Region for hundreds of years.  On the other hand a naturalized plants introduced long ago, but are now thriving and spreading without human intervention can be considered Native Plants.  For more information on Texas Native Plants visit https://www.npsot.org/.

Proven Winners
Proven Winner is a national plant distributor and seller.  This company sends their plants around the country for multi-year field testing by universities, public gardens, and test sites around the country.  Plant trial locations in Texas are The Dallas Arboretum and Texas Tech.  Go to the Proven Winner web site to find recommended plants for your region.  https://www.provenwinners.com/.

Sun and Shade
Some plants like lots of sun; others don’t.  To help you find the perfect spot for your plant, here is how to interpret those sun/shade requirements. 

 

I’ve got to go now. Sorry to rush off, but the nurseries are about to open.  I leave you with the Gardener’s Lament.  So many plants.  So little time.

Planting time is here!!
You won’t want to miss this free community education event presented by the Somervell County Master Gardeners. You’ll learn about Texas Superstar plant varieties and how to place them in your garden and flowerbeds.

They say, “a watched pot never boils”. Let me translate this into gardeners’ lingo.  “Staring at a spot where you planted a seed will not make the seed sprout any faster.”  But – we gardeners are impatient by nature.  Once a seed is in the dirt, we can hardly wait until we see that first tiny green speck emerges.  But wait we must.  If “patience” isn’t in your gardening vocabulary, “priming”, “scaring”, and “pre-sprouting” are three ways to speed up seed sprouting.  Before rushing Mother Nature with these techniques, it is important to understand how seeds work.

Hard Outer Seed Cover (also called a testa)
Protects seeds from external elements.
Hilum
Scar on the outer seed covering.  The Hilum is where the seed was attached to its mother plant.  I like to think of the Hilum as the seed’s belly button.
Micropyle
Tiny hole on the outer seed covering that allows water to enter the seed.
Endosperm
The tissue that surrounds and nourishes the embryo inside a seed                
Cotyledon
 Embryonic “leaves”.  The Cotyledon will be the food source as the plant grows.  Some seeds have one Cotyledon (e.g. Corn); some have two.
Plumule
Part of the embryonic plant that will become the first bud. The plumule usually has two  Cotyldon “leaves”.  These are a food source and cannot perform photosynthesis.
Radicle
Part of the embryonic plant that will become the root.
Abscisic Acid and Gibberelli
Hormones that prevent seeds from sprouting inside the fruit.

Here’s how gardeners can use these seed structure to greatly speed up sprouting.

 

KNOW YOUR SEEDS

Before diving in, two caveats are in order. 

One – the following techniques work best with larger, easily handled seeds.

Two – Different seeds have different germination requirements. For example, some wildflower and tree seeds require a minimum period of cold temperatures (chill hours)  before germination will occur.  For these varieties, Seed Stratification methods simulate winter by refrigerating seeds. Seed stratification can be incorporated with any of the following methods. 

  Seed Priming
 Here’s a much studied, well proven method for increasing germination rates and times. The   idea  is simple.  Soak seeds overnight to soften the outer shell and allow the solution (plain water, distilled water or compost tea) to soften and penetrate the seed’s outer shell.  After the overnight soak, lay the seeds out to dry a bit before planting.  They should be moist but not sticky.  Seed priming works very well for spinach – a crop that’s easy to grow but can have spotty germination rates.

 

Pre-Sprouting
Pre-sprouting seeds takes seed priming one step further.  After seeds are soaked overnight, cover them in the folds of a moist paper towel.  Keep the paper towels moist with gently spritzing.  In a day or two the seeds should start to sprout.  Plant seeds when the root (radicle) is 1-1.5 inches long. When planting, care must be taken not to damage to developing root.  One technique is to use tweezers when moving pre-sprouted seeds

Scaring
With seed scaring, things get a little more intense.  With scaring, the goal is to remove, crack, or weaken the outer seed covering so that the endosperm is exposed but not damaged.  Seed scaring takes somepractice.  Sandpaper or file can be used to scar seeds.  For hard seeds like okra, a toenail clipper works well.  Always scar seeds on the side opposite the Hilim (this reduces the chances of damaging the Radicle or Plumule.

 

 

 

If you find yourself toe-tapping, nail biting, and pacing as you wait for you seeds to sprout, don’t worry.  You’re not alone.   You don’t need professional help.  Just try priming, pre-sprouting, and seed scaring.  You’ll be glad you did.

 

Have you noticed?  Deciphering seed packages and seed catalogues isn’t what it used to be.  Seems like every year, a few more cryptic terms, abbreviations, and secret codes creep into to seed sellers’ descriptions.  Getting to the bottom of marketing lingo, legal regulations, YouTube experts, and gardening tradition can be frustrating.  If you are shopping for your Spring garden seeds, here are some terms you’ll run into.

• F1 Hybrid

  An F1 Hybrid variety is created when pollen from one plant variety is artificially
  transferred to another variety.  The process attempts to create a new variety
  with beneficial characteristic (e.g.disease resistance, taste, yield, etc.)
  of both parent plants. 
  
  Seeds for an F1 Hybrid must be produced each year through controlled pollination.
  This artificial pollination process produces F1 (Filial 1 or first generation)
  hybrid plant.  The F1 Hybrid seeds you buy are from these first generation plants.
   Seeds saved from F1 Hybrid varieties WILL PROBABLY NOT breed true.
  
  
• Open Pollinated
  Open Pollinated plant varieties are pollinated by natural processes such as insect pollinators, wind, motion, and by humans imitating nature.    Seeds saved from an open pollinated plant WILL “breed true”, producing offspring (and fruits/vegetables) like parents Here’s where things get muddy.
  
  Many gardeners believe Open Pollinated equals Non F1 Hybrid.  This is generally true.  However, some F1 Hybrids require natural pollination processes to produce a crop.  For example, varieties of F1 corn varieties must be wind pollinated.  Seed from these varieties will not breed true no matter how they were pollinated.  This is also true of certain melon (see Sugar Cube) and squash varieties.
  
  
• Heirloom
  “Heirloom” may be the most misused and abused word in gardening today.   When it comes to selling seeds, there is no legal (or even universally accepted) definition of an ‘Heirloom’ plant variety.    “Heirloom” refers to any plant variety that has been on the market for at least 40-50 years.  A “Heirloom” variety can be a hybrid, but not an F1 Hybrid (see Burpee’s Big Boy Tomato).
  
  

• NOP Seed Coating
   Planting and spacing very tiny seeds like lettuce and carrots can be difficult. National Organic Program (NOP) compliant seed coating is clay based and is certified organic.
  
  
• PVP – Plant Variety Protected
  PVP designation is meant to protect plant breeders who have developed (usually) a non-hybrid variety.  Under PVP regulations, seeds may only be saved for personal use.   PVP restrictions are valid for 20-25years, depending on the plant variety.

• Non-GMO (Genetically Modified Organism)
  By using selective breeding and artificial hybridization, humans have been genetically modifying food plant genes for thousands of years.  Modern genetics technology has brought a new twist to our world.   Today’s GMO refers to a process called Transgenic Modification.  This technique involves finding a desired genetic trait in an organism and splicing the genes controlling this trait into another organism – like corn or wheat.  The result is a new plant variety.  A Non-GMO plant variety may have modified genes (through years selective breeding or hybridization), but will not have genes “spliced” in, via Transgenic Modification, from another organism.  Two examples of commonly Genetically Modified food plants come to mind.
  Most commercially grown soy beans have been genetically modified to have the “Roundup Ready” gene making it able to resist the weed killer Glyphosate – the active ingredient in Roundup®.  This gene was taken from a soil borne micro-organism.  Another soil microorganism has been used in most corn varieties grown in the US today.  These varieties (called Bt Corn), secrete a protein, found in the soil microorganism, that kills certain pest caterpillars.
  
  

OTHER INFORMATION
Information on seed packets and in catalogues can vary greatly depending on the company.  Here are some things to look for and why.

• Lot #
  One year I planted a large bed of black-eyed peas.  Not a single seed germinated. I called
  the company, and they asked for the Lot#.  Turns out, seeds from this Lot # failed
  This seed company gave a store credit.  The morale of this story – keep the seed lot# until
   you are sure your seeds have sprouted and are producing the crop you purchased.
• Germination Rate
   Reputable seed companies test the Germination Rate of the seeds they sell.  Be aware
   that these tests are carried out under ideal conditions of moisture, temperature, light,
   light, etc.  For consumer, these rates should be considered guidelines only. 
• Test Date
   Test Date is the date germination testing was done.  A test date late in the previous year
   indicates these are fresh seeds for the current year’s garden.

 

 

F1 Hybrid.  Open Pollinated.  Non-GMO. Heirloom.  Which is best?  Which is safe?   Which should you buy?  There are strong gardening emotions in each camp.  Whichever plant varieties you choose, you can bet choosing your garden seeds will only get more complicated as time goes by.

In our November post we covered three pests that can give gardeners winter headaches.  Here are three more you’ll need to worry about.

Many thanks to Cyd Brown, Somervell County Master Gardener, for submitting these articles.

SCORPIONS (order Scorpiones)

Identification and Biology
You may never see scorpions in your garden.  They are mostly nocturnal hiding under debris, rocks, and mulch.  You may be able to spot Scorpions at night with a UV light,

Scorpions are predatory arachnids.  They have four pairs of legs, two pincers or claws for holding prey, and a long tail tipped with a long stinger. The scorpion’s sting delivers a shot of neurotoxins which paralyzes its prey.  Female scorpions can give birth about every two weeks and will carry their young on their back.

The most common species found in Texas is the striped bark scorpion.

Damage
Fortunately scorpions won’t damage your plants.  Unfortunately, scorpions can deliver a very painful, and sometimes serious, sting if they are disturbed.   

Contrary to common lore, most scorpion bites are considered non-lethal to humans.  However, according to Web MD, venom from a bark scorpion can cause symptoms “like fast breaths, high blood pressure, a racing heart, weakness, and muscle twitches.If you think you’ve been stung, don’t take chances. Go to the nearest Emergency Room.  Take the scorpion with you if you can (dropping the scorpion in boiling water will kill it.)

Management
You will likely only have problems with scorpions if you surprise them.  Wearing good work gloves is the best defense.  Scorpions love dark warm place – like shoes.  To prevent toe stings, don’t leave shoes or boots in the garden or greenhouse.

Remove all unnecessary debris and mulch. 

Natural oils can be effective short-term treatments for scorpions. These oils include; clove oil, rosemary oil, and cinnamon.   Use synthetic pesticides like permethrins or carbaryl (Sevin) can deliver more long-term treatment.

 

Thrips (order Thysanoptera)

Identification and Biology
Thrips are tiny, almost microscopic pests measuring about 1/32” long.  Females lay eggs in plant tissues.  After hatching, thrip larvae drop off the plant to pupate in the soil.  This development cycle can take between 8 and 20 days. 

There are about 6500 known Thrip species. Some thrips feed on plants.  Others are predators that hunt insects or other Thrips.  Only a small number of Thrip species threaten plants.

Damage
Plant damage from Thrips can vary depending on Thrip specie.  Like other insects, Thrips can cause damage during feeding creating silver or bronze colored leaf spots. Leaves will eventually fall prematurely.  They can secrete honeydew which will attract ants and form black mold. 

Perhaps the most serious problem caused by Thrips is the insects’ ability to spread plant viruses.  These viruses include spotted wilt virus (tomatoes),  nectrotic spot virus (impatiens), and Silver Mott Virus (melons and potatoes).  NOTE: Thrips are the only known insects that can spread tospoviruses – diseases that can cause serious economic damage.

Monitoring
Thrips are attracted to yellows and blues, so yellow or blue sticky cards can be used to catch them. Blue or white water pan traps can also be used to detect them. To check for thrips, beat flowers or plant leaves above a piece of white paper and look for tiny walking dashes. 

Be aware – Thrips can bite.  Avoid wearing bright colors (especially yellows and blues) in the garden. 

Control
Thrips can be very difficult to control as many species are known to have developed resistance to pesticides.  Products with the active ingredient Spinosad is probably your best bet.

Many experts recommend proven sanitary gardening practices as an effective Thrip control.  Remove infested plants from the garden or greenhouse as soon as possible.   Cleanup debris such as old mulch and dead plants.  Burn garden garbage if possible.  Be careful not to create tiny shelters where Thrips can hide and multiply.

 

Scale Insects (infraorder Coccomorpha)

Identification and Biology
If you see what looks like tiny fish scales slowly moving around on your plants’ leave or stems, you may have a scale insect problem.  The scales you see protect the underlying insect and cover the bug’s head and legs.  Scale insects come in two flavors; soft and hard.

Soft scale insects have a leathery, waxy scale that stays attached to the body.  These species feed on the plant’s vascular tissue (phloem) and will produce a sticky, ant-attracting honeydew.  The hard scale variety has stiffer wax, and feeds directly on the plants’ cells. 

Only immature scale insects move.  At maturity the scales drop off and the insects become immobile.

Damage
Large infestations of scale insects can cause serious plant damage.  Leaves may turn yellow or distorted and fall prematurely. Deposits of honey dew will attract ants (ants protect scale insects from predators) and will eventually begin growing mold.

Control
Heavily pruning infested plants is the best defense.  For houseplants, wash leaves and stems with a soft toothbrush or cotton swab dipped in soapy water or isopropyl alcohol. Horticultural oil, insecticidal soap, or neem oil can also be used. 

Be sure to remove honeydew spots and control ants. 

In colder months, apply dormant oil to the woody plant parts. This will help control over wintering scale insects.

Fighting insects never stops. Here are three bad bugs you may see in your garden or greenhouse most anytime of the year.

Many thanks to Cyd Brown, Somervell County Master Gardener, for submitting these articles. 

Fungus Gnat (Bradysia spp)

IDENTIFICATION AND BIOLOGY
Fungus gnats are one of the most common types of gnats found in Texas.  Adults are 1/8 inch long, delicate-looking blackflies with slender legs and thread-like antennae. They are attracted to light and you may see them “dancing” above the soil surface or flying around windows and lights.

Larvae live in the soil and are clear to white, about 2mm (0.08inch) long with shiney black head
capsules.

DAMAGE
Adult fungus gnats are considered a nuisance as they feed on plant liquids.   Larvae feed on organic matter by burrowing into the plant or feeding on root hairs causing wilting, even when watering is satisfactory. Extreme infestations of Fungus Gnat larvae can stunt or kill young plants.

MONITORING
The use of sticky traps can aid in monitoring for fungus gnat adults. Best results are obtained by using small pieces of sticky trap laid horizontally on top of the soil. Peeled potato chunks, 1” by ½” will attract larvae when placed on the soil surface. When you see larvae in the potato, sometimes in as little as 4 hours, throw away and replace.

MANAGEMENT
Cleanliness is key when battling Fungus Gnats in the greenhouse. Remove plant, debris, old potting mix diseased plants and other organic trash.
Light infestations may be controlled with the sticky traps and potato chunks. Large infestations may be treated with biological control agents like Steinernema nematodes or Hypoaspis predatory mites. The biological insecticide Bacillus thuringienses subspecies israelensis (Bti) may provide fast-acting, temporary control.

Mealey Bugs (Pseudococcidae spp)

IDENTIFICATION AND BIOLOGY
Mature male mealybugs are soft, wax-covered, insects of many genera. Adult females are wingless with oval bodies covered in a white mealy wax. Mealybugs can produce both sexually and asexually, so populations of these insects can rise dramatically in a short period of time. Most species of Mealybugs lay eggs in a white cottony sac.

Mealybugs suck plant sap and may produce sticky honeydew that leads to sooty mold growth on leaves which can impede photosynthesis.

DAMAGE
Mealy bugs can cause a condition called “Soft Scale” – large lumps and white fluff on leaves.  Soft Scale is caused by mealy bugs as well as other large sap sucking pests causing stunting, leaf. yellowing and deformation of plant parts.

MONITORING
The best method for monitoring is visual inspection. Mealybugs like to live in protected plant spots, like in the crown, in branch crotches, or on stems near the soil; so, check the plant very carefully. Some mealybugs may be found around the drainage holes of pots. To detect some underground infestations, you may have to remove the root-ball from the pot.

MANAGEMENT
Prevention is always the best. Before purchasing plants, check them over carefully for Mealy Bugs and other pests.

Soaps and oil sprays may provide some control for light infestation. Several applications may be needed. Systemic insecticides like imidacloprid or dinotefuran can be applied as soil drench. Be sure to read the product label and follow all instructions. 

Whiteflies (Aleyrodidae spp)

 

IDENTIFICATION AND BIOLOGY
Whitefly adults are small (approximately 1/16 – 1/8 inch), 4-winged, moth-like, and covered with white, waxy powder. Immatures are flat, oval, glassy to opaque, yellow or green-ish, and may have a fringe of wax filaments.

DAMAGE
Whiteflies feed on leaves, sucking juices from the plant. Damaged leaves become yellow, appear to be dry and may fall from the plant. Like Mealy Bugs, Whiteflies can produce honeydew which leads to Sooty mold fungus.

MONITORING
Check the undersides of plant leaves looking for all stages of whiteflies. A few individuals can produce thousands of young in a very short time, so inspect often. You can also use yellow sticky traps, hung just above the plant leaf canopy.

MANAGEMENT
Before purchase check plants for mealy bugs and other pests. Keep growing areas free of weeds. Cut out infested plant parts.  Remove and destroy heavily infested plants. High pressure water sprays to the underside of leaves may dislodge adults and nymphs (once a week for a least three weeks) and will also wash off honeydew and sooty mold. Insecticidal soaps and oil may kill whiteflies on contact but be sure to thoroughly cover the undersides of leaves. Multiple applications may be needed. 

Whiteflies have developed resistance to many pesticides. Recommended insecticides for Whiteflies include Azadirachtin, Bifenthrin, and Imidacloprid. Check the product label and follow all instructions.

Arbor Day in Texas is the first Friday in November.  This means it’s tree planting time in North Central Texas.  If new trees are in your future, follow these tips from the Texas A&M Forest Service.

TREE PLANTING ADVICE FROM TAMU

Here are top planting recommendations from TAMU biologist Robert Edmondson.

1.  Between Halloween and Thanksgiving is generally the best time to plant trees in North Texas.
2. Dig the planting hole twice as big as the tree’s root ball.
3. Fill the planting hole with water and check the drainage. If it takes longer than 24 hours to drain, choose another location.
4. Remove all foreign materials from the tree. This includes wires, tapes, burlap, and supports.
5. Trim sparingly. Only remove dead and diseased branches
6. Set the tree in the hole with the root collar flush or slightly above the natural grade. Planting too deep is a leading cause of newly planted tree mortality.
7. Once the tree is placed, gently backfill the planting hole with the same soil that came out of the hole.
8. When planting, never lift the tree by the trunk.
9. Stake a newly planted tree, only if necessary. Stakes should not be left in place longer than one year.
10. Mulch the tree out to the drip line. Mulch should be 2-3 inches deep, but not touch the trunk.
11. Protect the tree from animals and humans. Deer, livestock, weed whackers, and mowers are all bad news from young trees.  A staked, wire mesh cage at least 3 feet in diameter and 4 feet tall works well.

WATERING YOUR NEW TREE

Watering your new tree is critical – but not too much.  Here are watering tips and recommendations from TAMU:

When watering, pour water over the root ball.  Do not squirt water at the trunk.  Do not overwater.  Use 2-4 gallons of water for each inch of trunk diameter (use higher number is summer and lower number in winter. 

How much water?  Here are TAMU’s “Rules of Thumb” for watering newly planted trees.

Month 1 – Water 3X per week

                                                Month 2 – Water 2X per week

                                                Month 3 – Water 1X per week

                                                Months 4-12 – Water 1X-2X per month

                                                Beyond Year 1 – Water in absence of rain

For these and more tips for new trees see.

https://tfsweb.tamu.edu/arborday/plantingsteps/