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Acorns and Acorn Flour ©

November 5, 2016 by lheideman

By Dr. Christine Morgan, ND, PSc.D.

acornsDid you know that there is a nutritious food source literally dropping from your trees each fall? In fact, unless you are a squirrel, you may even see this food as a nuisance. But guess what? Acorns are edible!!

Alas, the lowly acorn was not always seen this way. Historical sources suggest that some of the world’s earliest civilizations ate acorns. In fact, the word for “oak” in Tunisian translates to “meal-bearing tree.”

Although acorns, which contain healthy fats, protein and minerals, found their way into many Native American foods and are the main ingredient of a traditional Korean jelly recipe, most people today shy away from eating them. Why? Anyone who has ever sampled a raw acorn can tell you. They taste bitter because of naturally occurring chemicals called tannins.

The secret to eating…and enjoying acorns…lies in removing the tannins. When you complete this process, you can produce a subtly flavored flour that works well in all kinds of baking recipes and even as a coffee-like beverage.

How to remove the tannins

The first step to removing the tannins is to select only ripe, brown acorns. Avoid green, blackened or mildewed acorns. Then remove the caps and boil the acorns for about 10 minutes. You will need to strain out the brown water and boil the acorns again in fresh water. Repeat this process three to four times until the water looks clear and the acorns can be easily shelled. This is the “work” that most people are unwilling to do to use acorns as a food source, but more and more people are looking for alternative food sources to increase variety in the diet which is important for true health.

Now that the tannins are removed, it is time to dry the acorns. First shell them. Spread the acorn nuts on a baking sheet and place them in a preheated 200*F. oven. Leave the door slightly ajar so moisture can escape. Let them dry until crunchy. You now have acorn nuts!

To make acorn flour

To make acorn flour, the process is a little different. Shell after the boiling process (leaching) and let freshly leached acorns dry out a bit on the counter. Grind slightly moist leached acorns in a blender or food processor. Spread the meal out on a tray and let dry at 200*F. in an oven until dry…or in a dehydrator at 105* until dry. Then re-grind the dry meal in the blender or food processor again to make a fine flour. Store ground flour in an airtight container on the counter or it can be frozen for longer storage use.

Acorns add a nutty, slightly sweet taste to recipes. You can use them as a substitute for chickpeas, peanuts or macadamia nuts. (Put them in banana nut bread or zucchini bread!) You also can use them to make acorn butter, which you can use instead of peanut butter or almond butter. You also can add them to salads, soups and stews for flavor and nutrition.

You can substitute the acorn flour in any recipe that uses wheat or other gluten-free flour, but keep in mind that acorn flour products will have a crumbly texture. If you prefer a spongy texture to your cookies or bread, you will need to mix in some other flour with your acorn flour, or increase the liquids in GF recipes with other flours.

Acorn Coffee

Another option is make acorn coffee. Now, this drink will not perk you up in the morning since acorns do not contain caffeine, but it is a pleasant beverage, especially in cold weather.

Place pieces of soaked (leached) acorns on a baking sheet and roast them in the oven at 400*F. for about 30 minutes. When the pieces are dark brown in color and have a pleasant roasted (not burned) aroma, they are ready.

Add one tablespoon of roasted acorn pieces per eight ounces of boiling water. Let the mixture steep for five to 10 minutes. Reheat if needed. Then you can add your regular coffee condiments or drink the acorn coffee black. Enjoy!

 

Filed Under: Current Newsletter, Gardening, Newsletters

Musical Chairs in the Garden

November 5, 2016 by lheideman

By Mary Ann Steele, Somervell County Master Gardener

Crop rotation is like playing a long term game of musical chairs in the garden.  Every plant is different:  inviting specific pests and diseases and demanding more of nutrients than others.  Growing the same crop in the same spot year after year drains the soil, and can lead to sick plants.   To make matters worse, some diseases and pests can end up taking residence in the soil around the plants they prey on most.  Keeping those plants in the same place is like inviting pests to an “all-you-can-eat” restaurant where their favorite meal is served every day.

Keeping a record of each crop allows you to perform the old switcharoo, confusing pests and diseases, and giving the soil a chance to catch up on depleted nutrients.  As a general rule, replacing a crop with a member of a different family will make a big difference.

Plant light feeders with heavy feeders, and deep-rooted plants with shallow-rooted plants.  Deep-rooted plants dig up the soil and bring nutrients from way below up to the top, while shallow-rooted crops create a web of roots near the surface, preventing erosion.

Some insect pests are put off by the smell or chemical composition of certain plants.  Protect vulnerable plants by growing repellent plants nearby.  Surrounding a vulnerable plant with something strong-smelling, like onion or garlic, can confuse pests.  Try marigolds, garlic chives, lavender or mint.

Insect pests are known to prefer some plants over others.  Try growing a known pest magnet near your favorite crop as a decoy.  Once infected, remove the decoy and destroy it, pests and all.  Try nasturtiums, mustard greens, or marigolds.

Legumes, such as beans and peas, can convert nitrogen from the air and release it into the soil.  Follow legumes with nitrogen-loving brassicas, such as broccoli, cabbage, or kale.

Grow tall, sturdy plants in front of delicate and sensitive crops as a protective shield against wind or excessive heat.

Grow short, quick-growing, shallow-rooted plants such as lettuce and greens under tall, leafy plants like tomatoes or okra.  The short plants will shade the soil surface for the tall plants while they work to get established, and the tall plants will provide shade for the short plants later in the season when the summer gets hot.  Try leafy greens, lettuce, parsley, and thyme.

 

 

Filed Under: Current Newsletter, Gardening, Newsletters

Next CHES Meeting, September 12th

August 31, 2016 by lheideman

Community Horticultural Education Series

September 12, 2016, 6:30 pm

Citizens Center, 209 SW Barnard

Glen Rose, Texas

110277-378x317-Colorful_Fall_Veggies

Fall Vegetable Gardens – What and When to Plant

Presented by Dr. Christine Morgan,  ND, PSc.D.,  

Master Gardener and Vegetable Specialist 

Program is open to the public and free of charge

Filed Under: CHES, Current Newsletter, Gardening, Newsletters

Caring for Caladiums in Winter

August 31, 2016 by lheideman

by Merilyn Cranford, Somervell County Master Gardener

Caladium+Pot+001What can I do with my caladiums during the winter in order to use them again next spring?

This question has crossed the minds of many gardeners and solutions vary.  For example, one suggestion is to leave them in the garden into fall so that the leaves can continue working and the tuber can continue to grow larger.   However, once frost is in the forecast, don’t stand on ceremony-just dig them up.

Another suggestion is to put the tuber into storage after removing from the ground or pot up the whole plant and place it in a brightly lighted windowsill.  By late January, the caladium is going to look tired and will need to rest before the tuber is repotted in the spring or planted in the garden after the soil has warmed up.  Chop off the foliage, knock off the soil and let the tuber dry at room temperature.  Any condensation will encourage bacterial rot, therefore, store the tuber in dry vermiculite or in a mesh bag (like an onion bag) in a dry place.  Ideally, storage is best at 70 to 75 degrees—but never below 50 degrees, making sure there is good air circulation.

Caladium is an extraordinary foliage plant.  Its leaves can be white with narrow green borders or combinations of white, green and rosy pinks, in pale to outrageous patterns that approach a third graders first attempt at stained glass.  Most caladiums are hybrids of Caladium bicolor or Caladium picturatum, native to the tropics of the Americas and the West Indies.  Plants can be costly, but tubers are inexpensive, so you can just say goodbye at frost time if you like.

Filed Under: Current Newsletter, Gardening, Newsletters

Next CHES Meeting, May 9th, Interactive Gardening/the Garden Loom

April 30, 2016 by lheideman

 

You are invited to attend the next Community Horticultural Educational Series (CHES) meeting on Monday, May 9th, at 6:30 pm, at the Community Center in Glen Rose, 209 SW Barnard.  Pat Kreiner will entertain and educate us on the subject of Interactive Gardening, highlighting the Garden Loom.  We are looking forward to an evening of learning and laughter!  The public is invited at no charge.

Pat Kreiner lives on a 2 acre mini-farm called Wildwood Cottage with her husband David & son John where she gardens, raises chickens, ducks, quail & rabbits. Gardening with her grandmother & father at an early age inspired a lifelong adventure in gardening. She has studied with individuals, schools, organizations in a variety of areas & earned multiple certifications. Working for several garden & herbal related companies has been an enlightening education on many levels. Throughout the years working as a landscape consultant she has specialized in Wildlife Gardening, Permaculture, Culinary & Medicinal Herbs, Horticulture Therapy, Square Foot Gardening & Container Gardening, In recent years she has been indulging her nerdy side by working at museums as a Historical Interpreter. During this time Pat has researched & demonstrated the historical uses of plants by Native Americans & Texas Pioneers. She loves to share her experiences as an educator for adult & children’s programs on multiple topics. Her best advise for anyone who wants to learn about gardening is to develop a sense of humor & an appreciation for the Natural World because many times it does not care what books you’ve read or what the experts said and that includes HER.

Interactive Gardens are a major part of Ms. Kreiner’s philosophy to incorporate Horticulture Therapy in every public garden. Public or private gardens strive to interact with those who visit by presenting a beautiful display, plant groupings for a purpose and all being explained by signage.  Visitors can revel in the sight, scent and sound of our gardens but usually it is a hands off enjoyment. This is where Interactive gardens create a more personal connection for your visitors. Examples such as Sensory Gardens, Garden Looms, A Working Water Pump, Creating an Outdoor Hopscotch, Pick Me, Water Me or Plant Me Spots move your visitor from an observer to a participant. Once they are a participant by creating or taking care of a portion of the garden it is now in a small or large part their garden.

 

 

Filed Under: CHES, Gardening, Newsletters

Earth Week Recap

April 30, 2016 by lheideman

by Jessica Brandt, Somervell County Master Gardener

Saturday, April 23 concluded the Somervell County Master Gardeners’ week-long celebration of Earth, as we joined several other organizations at Heritage Park for the Native Plant Society’s Earth Day Celebration. Members of Prairie Rose Native Plant Society, Rio Brazos Master Naturalists, Dinosaur Valley State Park, Glen Rose Garden Club, Glen Rose Bird Club and Dino Bee Club all joined in the celebration, sharing information with the many visitors to the park that day.

While we Master Gardeners celebrated Earth Week in many ways, including bike rides, recycling and turning off the lights, there is one thing that from this past month that stands out as a gardener’s ideal way to celebrate the earth: composting.

When I think of Earth Day, I immediately think “reduce, reuse, recycle,” and when you think about it, composting really achieves that goal. When composting, you can reduce the number of items that end up in the garbage, but you can also create a great soil amendment that can now be reused in the garden. I can’t think of a better way to recycle.

It just so happens that our April horticultural education program was on composting, so we’re all excited about our own composting. If you didn’t make it to the CHES program, you can always contact a Master Gardener with any questions about how to get started on your own composting system.

Thank you to everyone who helped celebrate a fun and successful Earth Week.

Filed Under: Current Newsletter, Gardening, Newsletters

Buying Healthy Plants

April 30, 2016 by lheideman

by Mary Ann Steele,  Somervell County Master Gardener

Now that gardening time is upon us, here are a few tips on buying your plants.

1.  Look closely at the leaves and stems.  Check underside for signs of pest damage.

2.   Inspect shoot tips closely for aphids, small pear-shaped insects that come in many colors.  They feed on young tender shoots, distorting growth and giving lower leaves a sticky look.

3.  Look on leaf surfaces for signs of spider mites.  These pests feed on the underside of leaves, causing a stippled or tan appearance on the leaf  surface.  They may even produce a fine webbing.

4.  Brush your hand over the plant to disturb the foliage.  If whiteflies are present they will fly up.

5.  Check leaves and stems for scale, small dark lumps that can be scraped off with your fingernail, and galls, tumor-like growths that indicate the shrub or tree is infected with crown gall, a bacterial disease.

6.  Avoid plants with wilted or discolored stems or leaves.

7.  To be on the safe side, spray plants all over and under with an insecticidal soap.

Garden Centers buy their plants from many different growers and any one of them can have a problem that goes undetected, and you end up with it in your garden.

Bottom line:  Check your plants carefully for signs of pests and diseases.  If you see a problem put the plant back and shop somewhere else.  You don’t want to bring problems home to your healthy garden.

 

 

 

 

Filed Under: Current Newsletter, Gardening, Newsletters

Dealing With Fungus Gnats

February 27, 2016 by lheideman

by Jes-c French, Somervell County Master Gardener Intern

Even in our relatively warm climate here in Somervell County, I’m sure there are many who brought some plants indoors to help them survive the cold of winter. I did, and with them some unwanted pests: fungus gnats.

I was asking for trouble from the moment I moved the plants indoors, because I didn’t adjust my watering appropriately. When plants are outside, they require more water because of the strong sunlight, heat and wind evaporation. Once they are brought inside, less water is needed because of lower light, temperature and wind (Browning). I had a routine to watering my plants, and when I brought them inside I continued on with the routine for a while before realizing I was overwatering.

When I understood my watering errors, I cut back on the frequency, hoping that the larvae would die off if they didn’t have a nice, wet environment to thrive. I also used yellow sticky traps to trap the adult gnats, keeping them from laying more eggs in the soil. Placing the sticky traps horizontally on top of the soil, beneath the foliage seemed to be the most effective way to trap the adults.

Fortunately, this method effectively solved my minor gnat problem. In some cases it might not be enough though. If there are still gnats flying around, you haven’t gotten to the root of the problem. Since the adults have short lives, one can assume there are still larvae in my soil (Savonen, 2006).

One way to address the gnats when simply letting the soil dry out doesn’t work is to completely repot the plants. The plants should be rinsed, the pots disinfected, and fresh soil that isn’t infested should be used. The infested soil can be solarized to kill the larvae. There are, however, other options if you do not want to repot your plants.

Adjusting our watering practices is a great first step of integrated pest management, but there are also chemical treatments that can be incorporated in the overall strategy. One highly recommended microbial insecticide for the larvae is Bacillus thuringiensis. Alternatively, parasitic nematodes, predatory mites, insect growth regulators, such as azadirachtin, or nerve-active insecticides, such as chlorphyrifos, can be used to kill the larvae (Drees, 1994).

For several other insecticide recommendations for killing both larvae and adult fungus gnats, see Drees’ Fungus Gnat Management at http://extentopubs.tamu.edu/bulletins/uc/uc-028.html.

Sources:

Browning, Sarah. “Winter Care of Indoor Plants (winter_houseplants).”Winter Care of Indoor Plants

(winter_houseplants). UNL Extension, n.d. Web. 25 Feb. 2016.

 

Drees, Bastiaan M. “FUNGUS GNAT MANAGEMENT.” FUNGUS GNAT MANAGEMENT. Texas A&M

University System, 1994. Web. 25 Feb. 2016.

 

Savonen, Carol. “Do Your Potted Plants Have Fungus Gnats?” Do Your Potted Plants Have Fungus Gnats?

Oregon State University Extension, 29 Dec. 2006. Web. 25 Feb. 2016.

Filed Under: Current Newsletter, Gardening, Newsletters

The Monarchs Are A’Comin’

February 27, 2016 by lheideman

By Shirley D Smith, Somervell County Master Gardener

If you are receiving this Newsletter, then I assume you are interested in gardening – and – if you are interested in gardening then it stands to reason you are interested in all its aspects.  One very important Monarch-Butterfly-17-HD-Images-Wallpapersaspect is the pollinators that keep almost all plants reproducing.  One pollinator that has been in the news of late is the Monarch butterfly and it is in trouble.  Many factors have contributed to the decline in Monarch butterfly numbers (i.e. climate change, encroachment into their habitat, etc.)

One important issue is the decline of the space on which the milkweed grows.  So much of the prairie, which runs through the middle of America has been and is in decline.  If you find milkweed growing on your property, leave it!  IT IS NOT A WEED! The monarchs lay their eggs on all different species of milkweed and this is what the caterpillar eats.  Many folks are trying to grow milkweed by using seeds.  This is not an easy task as many wildflowers are very picky about this sort of thing and prefer to “do it myself.”

"Antelope Horn" milkweed

“Antelope Horn” milkweed

We have milkweed in Somervell County and I actually have a lot of it on my property.  I make sure that our pasture is not mowed until the late fall when most of the wildflowers have done their thing.

If you want to learn more about milkweed then get online and read about it.  There is a lot of information about it and the more you know the better.  The scientific name is Asclepias.  Look up and see what the “baby” milkweed looks like so you won’t accidentally pull it up.

I have actually heard that over the past few years, the Monarch numbers seem to be steady but let’s you and I do all we can to make certain we continue to see this beautiful butterfly for many, many years.

Filed Under: Current Newsletter, Gardening, Newsletters

Growing Greens For All Seasons

January 29, 2016 by lheideman

GROWING GREENS FOR ALL SEASONS   ©

by Christine Morgan, ND, Somervell County Master Gardener

Cool Weather GreensGreen Vegetable

Kale, collards, mustard greens, turnip greens, Chinese cabbage (bok choy, and pac choi) from the brassica family are the best known greens available to the home gardener. Also important are Swiss chard and spinach. They can all be grown as cool season greens.

Collards, kale, mustard, turnips and pac choi are related to cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, and kohlrabi.  They are tolerant of cooler temperatures, and where winter is not too severe, kale will re-sprout from stems in the spring. They can be grown in spring and fall, but fall may be the preferable season because they benefit from frost which increases the sugar content and flavor of the leaves. These vegetables are quick to mature, being ready to pick in 30 to 60 days, depending on variety. I have grown collards all year long here…they will slow down growth in the summer…and then pick back up as the nights get cooler!

Turnips are a two way vegetable in that certain varieties can be grown to produce both greens and roots (ie. ‘Purple Top,’ ‘White Globe,’ ‘Just Right’ and ‘Tokyo Market’). Other two-way vegetables are beets and rutabaga. It is usually for sale in the store as a root only, but the greens are quite good. I think rutabaga is a sweet tasting love child between cabbage and turnip! The leaves taste more like cabbage, and the root tastes sweeter than a turnip.

Besides the greens mentioned above, lettuces, many Japanese greens, and other salad greens can be grown that have some kind of protection from the cold.

Herbs also included in cool season cultivation would be rosemary (which lives and produces year round), cilantro, parsley, and chives. Herbs are great additions in small amounts that help clean and strengthen your body.

Warm Weather Greens

Other greens are commonly called “spinach”, but are not in the spinach family. New Zealand, Ceylon, Red Malabar, and Purslane are four separate species of greens, but are grown in late spring and /or summer, as they require heat. Also sweet potato, and winter squash and pumpkin leaves are quite edible.

There are many Japanese greens to choose from…too many to list…and easy to grow. Dandelion, basil and other warm season herbs are delicious also.

Wild greens are another place to get greens as long as you know for 100% they have not been sprayed with herbicides! Purslane, chickweed, lambs quarters and miner’s lettuce are common here in Texas.

Another very heat tolerant green is Molokhia; it is from the okra family and is common in the Middle East, such as Lebanon. It can be grown in containers easily and does have some of the thickening ability like okra, but is quite good in stews or smoothies.

Cultivation:

In spring, plant seeds as soon as soil can be worked (3 to 4 weeks prior to frost date).  You can also germinate seeds indoors and plant 3 to 4 week old transplants into garden soil.

For fall planting, determine time to maturity (i.e. 55 days), then add 10 to 14 days (“the short day factor”) and plant seeds that many days prior to the first fall frost date (i.e. 65 to 69 days).

As in the spring, transplants can also be used in the fall. Also, many greens can be successfully grown in large pots or in “container gardens” that have a wide surface and a water reservoir in the bottom fed via a tube. I use container gardens from www.gardenerssupply.com with great results.

Sow seeds of these vegetables about 4 inches apart in rows 8 to 12 inches apart.  In fertile raised beds, seeds can be broadcast and thinned later.

Soil Remineralization and Amendments:

It is important to use beds or containers that have been remineralized with rock dust (Azomite) and contain amendments like course vermiculite, and/or perlite, and peat moss. In general, leafy greens should be spaced about 4 inches on center and the thinned plants can be eaten in their entirety! As with most vegetables, closer spacing will result in smaller, “baby leaved” plants, and farther spacing will result in larger heads or plants.

Fertilizing:

Leafy greens are medium feeders. Incorporate well-rotted manure (fall) or compost (fall and spring) at planting. Addition of manure or compost can add micronutrients and organic matter to soil. I prefer to keep all fertilizers organic because of the strong uptake ability of greens in regard to minerals, nutrients, synthetics, and poisons. I would not even consider eating non-organic commercial greens!

Harvesting:

With the exception of the Chinese cabbages…where the entire plant is usually harvested, the outer leaves of these greens are usually harvested. Make sure the outer leaves show no sign of yellowing, since at this stage they are past prime and should be composted. Alternatively, a raised bed can be thickly sown with your favorite leafy green and thinned to an 8 inch spacing after they are 6 to 10 inches tall. These thinned plants are your first harvest (the entire plant is edible), with future harvests coming from the outer leaves of the remaining plants.

Resource list:

Arrow Feed in Granbury has:

Azomite 44lbs. $34.99

Course Vermiculite 4 cu. Ft. $35.99

Perlite 4 cu. Ft. $26.99

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

R-95 dust masks home Depot or Lowes

Mushroom compost- Lowes

Organic garden soil-any of the above places

Filed Under: Current Newsletter, Gardening, Newsletters

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