This is the third installment of articles on heritage and native fruit trees and vines. The first two installments were included in the Ellis County Master Gardener newsletters that were published in May and September.

All of the trees and vines that have been spotlighted have some very strong points that make them easy to grow; have positive characteristics such as being very climate adapted and require little care or water; stand up to a wide range of temperatures, and often bear profusely. Many flower in early spring which provides food to bees and butterflies while the fruit provides food for birds in summer and fall. They have some drawbacks as compared to commercial fruit trees such as bearing smaller fruit than commercial trees that can make a mess of your yard. Some have thorns and some have fruit that contain chemicals that can cause issues if not allowed to completely ripen before eating.

In this article, I will cover Juneberry, quince, and pawpaw trees.

 

Juneberry / Serviceberry trees

Serviceberry trees also are called shadbush, shadwood, shadblow, sarvisberry, sarvis, wild pear, Saskatoon, sugarplum, wild-plum, and chuckley pear. Multiple names are common for native plants.

 

The Juneberry/ Serviceberry is native to North America. This species grows best in moist soils with proper drainage, full light to partial shade and is hardy in zones 4 to 8. They can grow 15 to 40 feet tall and 15 to 20 feet wide. Remember that if you intend to pick fruit, a shorter tree will be easier to harvest. If you do not harvest, there will be plenty of fruit in your yard on the ground, so you should plant outside normal walking paths.

Juneberrys / Serviceberrys provide color interest throughout several seasons. In spring, it bears clusters of white flowers much like a flowering plum. During summer months, the fruit begins to form, ultimately becoming bluish-black. In autumn, the leaves change to red, orange and yellow.

 

Quince Trees

The quince family also includes apples and pears. It bears hard, aromatic, bright golden-yellow fruit, similar in appearance to a pear. Ripe quince fruits are hard, tart, and astringent. They are eaten raw or processed into jam, quince cheese or alcoholic drinks.

Quince trees are sometimes grown as an ornamental plant for its attractive pale pink blossoms. Yes, there is a variety of quince that flowers but produces no fruit.

Quince is drought-tolerant and adapts to many soils. It tolerates both part shade and sun, but sunlight is required to produce larger flowers and ensure fruit ripening. It does not require much maintenance and has few insect and disease problems. While quince is cultivated on all continents in warm-temperate and temperate climates. It requires a cooler period of the year with temperatures under 45 degrees to flower properly. It can tolerate dry periods once it has become established.

Quince forms thick bushes and small trees (under 15 feet), which should be initially pruned into a single stem to ease harvesting. The tree is self-pollinated, but it produces better yields when cross-pollinated, so you will need at least two if you plan to gather fruit.

Quine flowers with pink to red flowers in spring, which provide food for bees and butterflies, and the fruit in fall provides food for birds and other animals.

 

Pawpaw trees

Pawpaw trees are grown now in much of the southern American states, although they were first cultivated in Mexico and Central America.

The pawpaw tree is a small to medium-sized tree. It’s known for its large edible fruit and colorful fall foliage. The fruit has a sweet flavor that can be described as a mixture of banana and mango. Its smooth, custard-like consistency is similar to avocado. Pawpaw fruit is uncommon in most grocery stores due to its short shelf life once ripe, which makes it difficult to find commercially.

Cultivated pawpaw trees can be challenging to find in many nurseries and garden centers. However, since wild pawpaws can be unpredictable when it comes to fruiting, it is best to buy a nursery start or propagate from an established fruiting tree.

Pawpaw trees are not self-pollinating, so two genetically different pawpaws are needed for pollination and fruit (suckers are not genetically distinct from the parent tree).

Pawpaw trees can grow 15 to 25 feet high and 15 feet wide. They tolerate full to partial sun. The tree prefers slightly acidic soil that is moist but well drained. It is hardy in zones 5 to 8. It often takes up to 8 years for a pawpaw to begin bearing fruit.

I must note that pawpaw fruit are slightly toxic to humans. They can be eaten but large quantities can cause neurological problems. Yes, they can be eaten but resist eating a lot of them.

Pawpaw trees have a distinct smell that can be bothersome to some growers. It is often described as smelling like rotting meat or fermenting fruit. The flowers, in particular, are known for being more highly scented, which helps to attract the tree’s pollinators including flies, blowflies, and carrion flies.

I personally would not grow a pawpaw unless I had some acreage where I could plant it downwind from the house.

by Rob Franks, ECMG

Over the years, I have collected a half dozen or so plants that love being outdoors in the summer but are not winter hardy here in North Texas. So, in late October, I start eyeing the weather, watching for when our nighttime temps will drop to 40 degrees or below. That’s the magic number signaling to me to get moving and bring my tender porch plants inside. 

Knowing this date sets the stage for giving my outdoor (soon to be indoor) plants a thorough cleaning and debugging. In past years, I have skipped this step and ended up with floors and furniture coated with stick aphid juice. Not an ideal situation by any stretch of imagination. 

So, if you are like me and watching for when to bring your plants in, here are some precautionary tips to make your winter transition easier. 

Hunt For Invaders 

Outdoor plants can harbor a number of pests like aphids, spider mites, spiders, fungus gnats, ants and lizards. I try hard to check every leaf and stem, the dirt and the bottom of the pot and saucer. I have recently added a lighted magnifying glass to my tool kit. This makes the invaders even more obvious.

I tip the pot up and peek at the saucer. I often find tiny spiders hiding there, ready to hatch a nest of babies in my house. If I spot trouble, my first defense is a strong spray with the garden hose.

If you already have a lot of indoor plants, don’t just bring your outdoor plants to sit amongst them. Inspect the outdoor plants first (or quarantine them). This will save you from infecting your inside plants in case you missed any bugs. 

Wipe Down Leaves

 After a summer outside, plant leaves can look like they have been through a dust storm. Pollen and grime can clog leaves, so give each leaf a good wipe down. It helps them breathe better and do a better job collecting the reduced quantity of sunlight they are about to experience. There are many suggested recipes on the internet for your cleaning solution. Simple seems best to me; I add a drop of dish soap to a half gallon of water.

 

Give Plants a Neem Oil Spritz

Once they’re clean, I give my plants with a light neem oil spray to keep pests away. I mix a spoonful of neem oil with water and a tiny bit of soap; then mist the leaves and stems. It’s gentle on the plants but tough on bugs. While you’re at it, lightly spray the soil as well. There could be pest eggs hiding there and this trick stops them. Be forewarned, neem oil is a little smelly. If you are not familiar with it, here is a link to a good article on its characteristics and use.

Learn more about neem oil: How to use neem oil on plants to get rid of pests naturally, Gardeningetc

Last But Not Least

This is also a good time to do a little precise pruning. Clip off anything yellow, dead or leggy. Summer can leave my plants looking a little wild and a quick trim helps them focus on strong growth. When pruning houseplants, cut just above a leaf node to help spark new sprouts and grow bushier plants.

Lastly, poke around the soil of your pots. Are they root bound? Has the soil become packed tight, are the drainage holes still working? Make sure drainage is clear and repot houseplants if they’re cramped. Even if you don’t repot, a sprinkle of fresh potting mix on top of the soil (preferably one of those with built-in fertilizer) can provide a nutrient kick without a full re-pot.

by Kim Rainey, ECMG

 

 

This month I had the pleasure to visit Wildseed Farms* in Fredericksburg, Texas. What makes this farm special is its focus on wildflowers and native plants. It is a smorgasbord of Texas friendly plants. The farm boasts having more than 1,000 cultivated Texas acres of wildflowers and more than 200 of those acres are in Fredericksburg. Not only that, but they also claim to be the world’s largest producer of Texas bluebonnets.

As most already know, fall is the best time to plant bluebonnets. The idea is to get the plants established before winter sets in. I was happy to find among the many seeds at the farm the Texas Superstar® “Alamo fire” (Lupinus texensis Fabaceae), the maroon-colored bluebonnet.

This maroon, white tipped bluebonnet was developed by former Texas A&M horticulturist Jerry Parsons, PhD. The idea of a maroon color was born from Dr. Parsons’ desire to use bluebonnets to create the Texas flag, so he needed red, white and blue. He worked with John Thomas of Wildseed Farms to establish the white bluebonnet, which did exist but was uncommon. It took another 21 years for him to develop the Alamo fire.

The Alamo fire grows to 1 to 2 feet in height and like the blue version, it flourishes in full sun (minimum of 8 hours), dry soil and has low water needs. It blooms from March to May and is bee friendly. The ideal location, like all bluebonnets, is a sunny and sloped area with well-drained soil with a pH level between 6-7. To maintain the color, any plants with purple or blue flowers should be removed.

To grow bluebonnets, there are several things you can do to give your seeds an edge. Scarify them. This means to nick or scratch the coating on the seeds to help them germinate more easily. An easy method is to rub them with sandpaper. (Note: it is not recommended to scarify the seeds if the planting area will not receive water during winter and spring.) Bluebonnets thrive in poor soil, full sun and without competition. If you’re seeding an acre or more, a good seeding rate is 10 to 12 pounds per acre.

If you’re planting a small bed at home, prepare the soil first. Loosen it in established beds and till it in new ones. Scatter seeds as uniformly as possible, but don’t bury them. Instead, carefully press them into the soil—remember, seeds must be in contact with the soil in order to grow. Once they are growing, keep in mind they are not perennials; they are annuals and must be allowed to reseed. Don’t cut or mow them down. It might take several years to get them fully established, but once they are, they will not disappoint.

Did you know      The bluebonnet is the state flower, but there are six varieties. They are the Big Bend bluebonnet (Lupinus havardii), sundial lupine (Lupinus perennis), Nebraska lupine (Lupinus plattensis), sandyland bluebonnet (Lupinus subcarnosus), Texas bluebonnet (Lupinus texensis) and the bajada lupine (Lupinus concinnus). On March 7, 1901, Texas officially adopted the flower of the legume Lupinus subcarnosus. This led to debates about whether this included the other bluebonnet varieties. The matter was settled only 70 years later in 1971, when the bill was amended to include all varieties.

In the 1930s, the state’s highway department focused on expanding the bluebonnet range in Texas. The legacy of those efforts can be seen today along highways during the spring when masses of bluebonnets prolifically bloom.

by Teresa Brown, ECMG

 

* The Ellis County Master Gardeners does not endorse any particular plant/seed business or farm. 

Sources:

Jean Andrews (May 1, 1995, originally published 1952). Texas State Historical Association. The Bluebonnet: Texas state flower history and significance. https://www.tshaonline.org/handbook/entries/bluebonnet

Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center. (March 12, 2008). History of the Texas Bluebonnet. https://www.wildflower.org/expert/show.php?id=2095

Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center. (n.d.). How to grow bluebonnets. https://www.wildflower.org/learn/how-to/grow-bluebonnets

Adam Russell (September 24, 2025). Tips to plant wildflowers this fall for a beautiful spring. AgriLife Today. Texas A&M AgriLife.
https://agrilifetoday.tamu.edu/2025/09/24/tips-to-plant-wildflowers-this-fall-for-a-beautiful-spring

Texas Master Gardeners. Texas Bluebonnet “Alamo Fire.” Henderson County Master Gardener Association. https://txmg.org/hendersonmg/files/2019/04/BLUEBONNET-TEXAS-ALAMO-FIRE.pdf

Andrew Weber (April 8, 2025). The man spent 20 years trying to turn bluebonnets red. KUT Texas Standard.
https://www.kut.org/austin/2015-04-08/this-man-spent-20-years-trying-to-turn-bluebonnets-red

Harvesting vegetables from the garden is one of the rewards of planting, but it’s not the ultimate incentive. Eating is the pinnacle. It can be frustrating when those delicious rewards are lost after the harvest. If improperly stored, produce can deteriorate prematurely, suffering damage. To retain the best quality, knowledge is key.

As most gardeners know, vegetables continue the life process even after they are harvested. So, it’s important to know the ripeness. Ripeness determines storage. If the vegetable is still immature, it needs to be stored at room temperature, so it can continue maturing. However, if it is ripe, the process needs to be slowed by chilling it.

Also, air circulation is necessary to minimize spoilage as well as proper moisture level (or humidity). Some vegetables require high humidity during storage, while others, such as onions, do not. To help sort out the different needs, here is a handy post-harvest storage guide for specific garden vegetables.

Here’s a quick guide for storing your harvest bounty.

Asparagus – Store in the refrigerator and wash before cooking.

Beans (broad, lima and green shell) – Store in a cool and humid place and use quickly.

Beans (snap) – Store in cold (45 to 50 F degrees) and humid place and use quickly. Wash before storing.

Beets – Wash and refrigerate immediately.

Broccoli – Store in the refrigerator’s cold section.

Brussels sprouts – Store in the refrigerator’s cold section.

Cabbage – Store in the refrigerator’s crisp drawer and use within 7 to 14 days.

Carrots – Refrigerator after harvesting and washing.

Cauliflower – Store in a cool, humid place.

Celery – Store in the refrigerator after harvesting and washing.

Corn (sweet) – Immediately after harvesting, refrigerate, cook or eat.

Cucumber – Store in the refrigerator for up to 5 days. Refrigerating for longer periods might damage cucumbers.

Eggplant – Store in a cool, humid place.

Garlic – Store in a cool, dry place.

Greens – Refrigerate immediately after harvesting and washing.

Kohlrabi – Refrigerate after harvesting.

Lettuce – Store in the refrigerator after harvesting and washing.

Melon (muskmelon) – If ripe, refrigerate. If immature, store in a cool place.

Okra – Chill immediately after harvest.

Onion – Store in a cool, dry place.

Parsley – Refrigerate after harvest.

Peas – Immediately refrigerate after harvesting and washing.

Potato (new) – Do not wash but remove clinging dirt. Store in a cool, dry place.

Pumpkin – Store in a cool, dry place.

Radish – Wash and chill immediately.

Rutabaga – Refrigerate after harvesting.

Spinach – Store in the refrigerator after harvesting and washing.

Squash – Do not store in cold temperatures for more than 2 to 3 days.

Sweet potato – Do not wash but remove any clinging dirt. Cure for a minimum of 14 days after harvest in a well-ventilated, warm place. Store in a cool, dry place.

Tomato – Refrigerate after harvesting.

Turnips – Store in a cold, humid location.

by Teresa Brown, ECMG

 

Source: Texas A&M AgriLife Extension. Easy Gardening.

https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/wp-content/uploads/sites/10/2013/09/EHT-071.pdf