Ellis County Master Gardener AssociationTexas A&M AgriLife Extension Service

Slithering Garden Helpers

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Despite their bad rap, snakes play an important role in the ecosystem and the garden. They are nature’s pest-control service, keeping insects and rodents, like rats and mice, in check. Without snakes, vermin could exponentially increase as well as the diseases they carry. Snakes are also prey animals, providing a food source for hawks, owls, roadrunners, opossums, foxes, and many other animals.

There’s a good chance that while working in the garden, one will see a snake hiding among the leaves, grass and shrubs. When spying a snake, often the first thought is whether it’s dangerous, and that’s a valid concern. Of Texas’ 76 species of snakes (105 counting subspecies), there are only four venomous species. Even though the chances are greater of seeing a nonvenomous one, for safety’s sake, it is necessary to recognize if a snake is venomous. And since there are only four, it’s a lot easier to identify them than trying to remember 100-plus harmless ones.

Venomous snakes

Texas’ four species (15 subspecies) of venomous snakes are rattlesnakes, cottonmouths, copperheads and the Texas coral snake. The first three are known as pit vipers. The term refers to the heat-sensing pit or depression found on each side of the snake’s face, more precisely located between the eye and nostril. The coral snake is not a pit viper; it is in the Elapidae family. Snakes in this family are characterized by having short, fixed fangs in the front of their mouths as opposed to retractable or grooved fangs.

When identifying snakes, there is no single reliable characteristic that can be used. Instead, take time to familiarize yourself with each species’ distinctive markings.

Copperhead (Agkistrodon contortrix)

There are three subspecies of copperheads in Texas. These snakes are somewhat colorful; they have reddish-brown markings against a light-colored body. The distinctive markings are often described as resembling Hersey’s chocolate candy kisses along their bodies. These snakes are not large with some adults reaching 30 inches in length.

 

Cottonmouth also known as water moccasin (Agkistrodon piscivorus)

These snakes tend to be found near water, marshes, rivers and ponds and when agitated, they display a gaping white mouth, hence their name. A cottonmouth is a heavy-bodied snake with a dark band along the side of its face and across its eyes. When young, their pixelated bands are easier to see, but as they age, the body can look black or dark brown and the bands are hard to see. The head is flat and looking at it from over its head, the eyes cannot be seen. It can reach up to 3-1/2 feet in length.

 

Rattlesnake

There are two genus groups of rattlesnakes, Sistrurus and Crotalus. The Western diamondback (Crotalus atrox) is the most commonly found in most of Texas. It has clear diamond-shaped markings on its back as well as “buttons” or segments at the end of its tail that can make a rattling sound. On the tail preceding the buttons are black and white colored bands.

 

 

Coral snake (Micrurus fulvius tener)

The Texas coral snake is in the Elapidae family and it is the only one in the state. The snake is small — 2-1/2 feet or smaller. It is brightly colored usually with rings of black, yellow, and red. The yellow bands always frame the red ones. It’s important to note that there are several harmless snakes with similar color bands, but with those snakes, the yellow does not touch the red.

While looking at the color bands is useful, there are instances where color variations can skew them, making identification solely based on color impossible. For this reason, some snake experts discourage using mnemonic color rhymes to distinguish coral snakes from harmless ones (e.g., red touch black, venom lack). Additionally, the rhyme can be recalled inaccurately, which can be hazardous. Instead, they recommend also using other identifiers: the snake’s blunt-shaped head that is slightly wider than its neck, a shiny body that is the same diameter for almost its entire length, no red is on its head nor its tail, and the color bands encircle the body completely (it has the same pattern on the belly as on the back).

Any time one is not certain, the safest rule is to not handle snakes. It’s no secret that most bites are the result of attempting to handle them or just not seeing them. It’s best to never put a hand or foot somewhere you cannot see, such as in thick underbrush or under debris. If a snake is seen, slowly back away and let it go about its business. If you don’t like where it’s at, a gentle spraying from a water hose will usually move it along without anyone getting hurt.

If relocation is an absolute necessity, there are several facts to consider. First, it’s illegal to relocate snakes (or any wild animal) without the expressed permission from the Texas Parks & Wildlife department. In fact, many snakes are protected and killing them could be illegal. Additionally, improper relocation can mean a death sentence for the animal. Snakes (and other wildlife) know their territory, where food, shelter and water will be found. Moving them into an unfamiliar place means they will not know where to find these life-essential resources. The good news is there’s a Facebook group with a directory of approved relocators. There is also an excellent medical resource available in case a bite occurs. But, hopefully, armed with information and caution, these resources won’t be needed.

by Teresa Brown, ECMG

 

 

Free Snake Relocation Directory – https://www.facebook.com/groups/262485500985003  As the name implies, volunteers offer their services to humanely relocate snakes for free.

National Snakebite Support – https://www.nationalsnakebitesupport.org and  https://www.facebook.com/groups/987850051297436   This Facebook group is operated by doctors and veterinarians who are snakebite treatment experts. They offer free medical treatment advice for anyone (human and pet) bitten by a pit viper or coral snake in the United States. Please note that due to the urgent, private medical nature of the posts, it is a strictly managed, read-only group. It is not a discussion group and breaking posting rules even once will result in a permanent ban.

Texas Parks & Wildlife – https://tpwd.texas.gov/education/resources/texas-junior-naturalists/snakes-alive/snakes-alive

What kind of snake is this? North Texas Educational Group (operated by Nature’s Wildlife and Reptile Rescue) – https://www.facebook.com/groups/606404222703136  This Facebook group is an excellent resource to identify snakes.

Source material

National Library of Medicine. (2023). Coral snake toxicity. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK519031

National Snakebite Support. (2024). Benadryl will not help a snakebite.   https://www.nationalsnakebitesupport.org/nss-snakebite-management-education/benadryl-ineffective-for-snakebite

Texas Parks & Wildlife. (2025). Venomous snake safety. https://tpwd.texas.gov/education/resources/texas-junior-naturalists/be-nature-safe/venomous-snake-safety

Texas Parks & Wildlife, The State of Water. (n.d.). Northern Pineywoods, Western cottonmouths. http://www.texasthestateofwater.org/screening/pdf_docs/fact_sheets/western_cottonmouth.pdf

A Fun Way to Provide for Wild Birds

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A couple of years ago while I was browsing the seed offerings in a local store, I stumbled upon a seed packet for Birdhouse Gourds and thought, “Why not?”.

I knew that it would take a sturdy structure to hold the gourds while they were green and growing but I had just put an overhead structure on my garden to keep the birds from pecking my tomatoes and provide an anchor for the strings that I would use to support all my vining crops. The overhead was constructed of treated 2×4 and hog wire so it was very sturdy.

I planted the gourd seed on the edge of my garden and as they grew, I encouraged them to go up and over the top of my garden. I wasn’t too worried about blocking sunlight because my veggies would be feeling the lack of water and intense summer sun before the gourds were too thick.

The first picture is my garden with gourds growing on top of it. Notice the gourds hanging on the vines. The gourds are big and heavy while green and I needed to leave them alone until the summer heat had dried them before harvesting them.

The second and third pictures are part of the harvest. In all, I got 37 gourds. notice that you should leave a piece of the vine attached to make it easier to hang them.

After the gourds are completely dried, the only real challenge is to make a hole in the side that is the proper diameter for the birds that you wish to attract. I used my drill with a hole saw and very carefully drilled out an entry hole. Then I drilled a small hole below the entry for a twig and 3-4 small holes in the bottom so that if rain gets in, it can drain out.

I use a long screwdriver to remove the dried interior and seeds. The dark seeds should germinate for the next season.

The gourds can be either painted or left naturally colored. If leaving them natural it is a good idea to spray them with a clear sealer. See picture on the right.

Have fun growing the gourds, making the birdhouses, and giving them to your friends.

Rob Franks, ECMG

Growing Onions in North Texas

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I have grown onions in my garden for several years in raised beds. It is one of my favorite vegetables to grow. You can grow yellow, white and red onions in North Texas. Pick them early before the bulb gets big if you want green onions!

There are many varieties of onions, so what variety should you grow? Onions are classified as short, intermediate and long day onions. The further north you are, the longer the daylight hours are and you would need to select long day onions. If you grow short day onions up north, they will start to form bulbs too early, causing weaker bulbs, and putting too much strain on the young roots. In Texas, short-day varieties work best. Some varieties that do well here are Chula Vista, Legend, Linda Vista and of course, the Texas 1015Y. You can buy your onions in most farm stores or you can order them online. Select sets that are firm, dry, and free of mold or rot. The roots and tops may be dry, but that is fine. Onions are a member of the lily family and can live for 3 weeks off of the bulb.

Onions are a cool season crop and can tolerate temperatures below freezing. You can plant seeds or sets. Fun fact: the Texas 1015Y got its name as the seeds need to be planted around October 15th.  Onion sets need to be planted from late January to mid-February in North Texas. If planting seeds they should be planted in October. For this article, I am talking about planting sets.

Onions need to be grown in full sun (yes, Texas full sun!) and in well-drained soil. I have found that mine do best in raised beds as I have lots of clay and rock. To prepare the site, work the soil 8-10 inches deep and remove any rocks or any other debris. Break up the soil, making sure there are no clumps.

Plant your onion sets ¾ of an inch deep and 3 inches apart. However, I allow a little extra room between mine. Do not plant deeper than 1 inch deep. Onions like soil that is well fertilized. Spread 2-3 pounds of a balanced fertilizer such as a 10-10-10 over 100 square feet of garden space. You can do this when preparing the garden for planting. Work the fertilizer in the top 3-4 inches of soil.

Watering your onions once a week in the spring is usually sufficient but water more frequently in dry, windy weather. Water slow and deep in order to grow strong and healthy roots. Keep your onion beds weed free as the weeds will compete with the onions. When the onions have five to six leaves, fertilize again to grow more leaves. Each leaf forms a ring in the bulb so the more leaves, the more rings and bigger the bulb. Fertilize with ½ cup per 10 feet of linear onion row. Scatter between rows and water in.

Onions typically have few problems with insects. You may see Thrips between the onion leaves. Many insecticides are available. Organic solutions include sulfur and Bt-based insecticides. Brown leaf tips or brown spots in the middle or lower portion of the leaf may indicate disease. Sulfur has fungicide properties. Neem oil is also useful. Always follow package directions.

You may find that your onions may bolt at some point. Bolting is when the plant prematurely sends out a flower stalk. This happens when the plant is under stress and takes energy away from the bulb and puts it in the flower. I see this when the weather suddenly turns hot. This is very hard to prevent. If you see a flower head start to form, remove it immediately and harvest and use this onion first as it won’t last very long.

You can harvest your onions when the main stem gets weak and falls over. Pull the plant from the soil and leave them lying in the garden for 1-2 days to dry. Then remove the tops and roots and let them keep drying in a basket or box with good air flow. Store your onions in a cool dry place that is well ventilated. Sweet onions are best used within 3 months.

Happy Gardening!

Angie McKune, ECMG

Field Trip: Metro Maples… more than I imagined.

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Picture your most favorite memory of a fully mature maple. It may be something like this picture below.

Now picture a graceful and colorful Japanese maple with its signature domed tree top and seasonal color changes and imagine it growing in your own yard. That’s right, here in North Central Texas, where not only are the stars at night big and bright, but the summers are forget-me-not, hotter than hot. I am here to tell you that this doesn’t have to live in your imagination alone. It is a real possibility, and you don’t have to spend a fortune on one of these beauties.

Our Ellis County Master Gardeners took a field trip to Metro Maples Nursery in South Fort Worth in January and discovered a wonderful place to learn about and purchase a variety of Japanese maples.

While the Japanese maples weren’t in bloom yet, it was the perfect time to visit and learn about what owner Scott Hubble and his team are doing to propagate a variety of them. We were delighted to be offered a chance to observe him in his greenhouse grafting one variety of Japanese maple onto the base stem of an Acer Palmatum, a Japanese maple used for commercial propagation. The purpose for grafting/propagating these Japanese maples is to add strength to a weaker cultivar and increase unique shapes and colors that will be esthetic and tolerate the Texas heat.

You’ve heard the saying, “Timing is everything,” well that could not be more truthful for this operation. This delicate but precise process starts in October when the seedlings are selected and potted, then placed in the greenhouse for a period of dormancy.

 

By the end of November, they are taken out of dormancy to activate the root stock. Around the first week of January, they look for the appearance of white roots, which signifies when they can begin the grafting process. The process begins with sharp, sterile tools. A twig or scion is selected from one of their mature Japanese maples, and a sharp point is shaved at the end of that stem. Next using nearly surgical precision, a slit is made in the host stem, Acer Palmatum, between two nodes.   

Each graft is wrapped in a special tape that has a paraffin material that can stretch and cling to itself and keep out external moisture. The roots from the host stem will provide all the nutrients needed for the graft to grow. During this time, no watering is needed. Once the appearance of foliage is seen, the watering begins. The opportunity to continue this graft process will last for as long as the cooler weather permits.

I could go and on about our wonderful experience on this field trip, but I’ll save the rest for you to explore on your own visit there. The best time to visit is in mid-April to early May when you can see all the different varieties in full bloom and color. You can purchase your own Japanese maple and have one of the staff assist you with your selection based on your landscape, as many of these maples require some shade but not all of them. While you can purchase them in containers, they will need to wait to be planted until October but can be planted as late as mid-March. Don’t forget while you’re there to check out the koi pond stocked with about 100 different koi in a rainbow of colors.

If you are interested in owning a Japanese maple, you can find one at the Master Gardeners Lawn and Garden Expo on March 29. You could also plan a trip to Metro Maples by appointment Monday through Friday; they are open to the public on Saturdays. They are located at 4890 S. Dick Price Rd., Fort Worth and can be reached by phone, (817) 797-3419. You can also reach out to Scott Hubble via email, metromaples@yahoo.com, or visit the website, www.MetroMaples.com.

Herbs in the Garden

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There are so many great reasons to grow herbs in your garden, so let’s dig into the why.

1) Fresh taste

Herbs are a culinary delight that add flavor, color, or texture to your meal. We could all drive to the store and find a ground or dried version of herbs to enhance our recipes, but nothing compares to getting those same herbs fresh from your garden. Have you ever pinched a leaf off of mint and chewed it? What a burst of flavor and freshness! Imagine making an Italian meal at home and using fresh basil and oregano right out of your own garden. Now that’s Italian!

2) Colors, a feast for your eyes

Another great reason to grow herbs in your garden is for their visual appeal to the landscape. The array of colors in an herb garden can range from the deep green of rosemary or fennel to the eye-popping purple of Thai basil, or the two-toned color of pineapple sage. Additionally, you can increase the colors in your garden by growing herbs in decorative pots. The color options are almost endless and it is rewarding to find the perfect color of pottery to enhance your herb garden. In fact, many herbs are easier to grow in pots. For example, mint can be aggressive in the ground but is easy to maintain in a pot. Other herbs like lavender and rosemary prefer growing in drier conditions like a pot.

3) Aroma and smell

Herbs are easily enjoyed by their aroma. I find it almost impossible to pass by a rosemary bush without running my hands through its branches, just so I can enjoy the savory smell it gives off. The same can be said about basil and mint. While some people do not like black licorice, fennel has that distinctive smell that cannot be mistaken.

I hope to see you at the Expo on March 29, or better yet, I would love to see you in your herb garden!

 

Malcolm Avaritt, ECMGA

Planting a Bare Root Persimmon

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It’s December, and by this or next month, it’s time to plant bare-root trees, especially fruit trees. Here’s how I planted a persimmon, though the technique will be similar for other trees.

Selection:

  • Check that your tree canopy will not impinge on other trees, the house, the neighbor’s property, etc. after it has grown to full height and width.
  • Check that the tree is appropriate for the climate zone you are For Ellis County, this is zone 8A. Many advise buying a tree hardy to zone 7 because as people who have been here a few years have experienced; our weather can get into single digits for several days straight.
  • Persimmons in particular come in two major categories: astringent and non-astringent. The former has to be picked fully ripe and is best frozen and scooped out, to avoid a pucker factor in the flavor. Non-astringent varieties can be eaten at a less full level of ripeness.

Mail order nurseries. I ordered from a mail-order nursery, WomackNursery.com. Womack Nursery is about two hours west of Waxahachie. It has cultivars that you can’t easily get near Waxahachie. If you can find what you want locally in a pot, do so. It will be a little easier to grow and you’ll be able to plant it in other seasons besides winter. However, I could not find anything at the time at a local nursery.

 

Here are the steps I used:

  1. I received notification of the expected delivery time, so I dug a one-foot-deep by a couple-foot wide hole in our black clay soil, cleared my schedule, and got ready to plant. The clay I pulled out, I broke up into as small fragments as possible, to avoid air I also tested the hole for drainage by filling the hole with water. If it drains within 24 hours, it would be satisfactory for planting. Greater than 48 is unacceptable. In between is a judgment call based on what you can find out about the tree’s tolerance for wet soil.
  2. When the tree arrived, I received something that looked like a tuning fork, with the stem pointing up and two thick roots pointing down parallel to each other, with the trunk going up from where the roots joined.
  3. This got me scratching my head about where the soil level should There was a point where the trunk thickened near where the junction of the roots occurred. I took that to be the beginning of the root flare and set my soil line at or just above the junction of the roots with the trunk.

Note: Some sources say to put the soil line just below the grafting junction. This could be wrong depending on where your tree is grafted. In my case, the grafting junction was several inches above the root flare.

  1. I adjusted the depth of the hole, only digging wide enough so that there would be room to comfortably refill with soil while tamping down the soil to get air bubbles out. I also had a mound of soil in the center of the hole, where the base of the tree could rest and the roots branch out..
  2. With a helper holding the trunk upright and the roots standing on the shale I put at the bottom, I filled the hole with soil and water, periodically lightly stepping on the soil to eliminate air pockets.
  3. I put several inches of mulch over the soil, not letting the mulch touch the trunk, put a wire fence around the tree to keep the dog from digging, and I was done.
  4. Some people counsel topping the trunk of a bare-root fruit tree as low as a couple feet. This starts the canopy at a lower point to make picking easier, as well as to encourage root I did not do this, the tree being a variety that will not grow too big in the first place.

Post planting care. One does not ordinarily fertilize a bare root planting at the time of planting. I periodically watered, sticking a finger into the soil to determine where the soil was moist. If it was dry an inch down, I would irrigate using a soaker hose.

The first year, it took well into May for the first growth to appear after planting in December. I read that this is typical for bare-root persimmons. So be patient!

Why did I choose persimmon? The fruit is delicious, generally unavailable at the supermarket, with fruits ripening to a colorful orange. You can harvest after the leaves have fallen, making it look like it has Christmas tree ornaments!

Other fruit trees with unusual or expensive fruit that grow easily in Ellis County include figs and pomegranate.

by Paul Thomas, ECMG

Planting a tree? Now is the time, but here is something to consider!

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I wanted a tree in my backyard that was going to thrive and grow large because the backyard is on the east side of my house and it gets hot out there. There was a small native pecan growing along the south fence that was about 3.5 feet tall.

I wanted an oak because they tolerate our climate, are beautiful, hardy trees and support local pollinators and birds; but what kind should I plant? All oaks are not alike and many oak trees are slower growers than others. Some oaks get as large as 80 feet across when full grown and 70 to 90 feet tall, which will block the morning sun.

I decided to plant a native White Oak, which is tolerant of our climate and a rapid grower. I have a Mexican White Oak in the front, so I decided to plant a Burr Oak (which is another type of White Oak) out back. But what size tree to plant?

Many people purchase trees that are already 6 to 10 feet tall, so they “have a tree” but that tree is going to spend a lot of its energy growing roots before it grows a lot on top and that tree size will need to be staked for 1 to 2 years to keep it upright.

I chose to buy a small 1-year-old Burr Oak in a pot. The tree had not had time to grow a lot on top, but its root system was already developed for the size and would not need staking. At 3 years old, my Burr Oak was growing very rapidly. I have included pictures of the tree when first planted at three years and now after 8 years. The tree is now about 28 feet tall and has an 8-inch diameter trunk. It grows about 4 feet every year.

I included a picture of the native pecan to give you an idea of growth rates. Remember that it was 3.5 feet tall when I planted the Burr Oak; it is now about 12 feet tall.

If you need help choosing and planting trees in your yard, the Ellis County Master Gardeners can be very helpful with tree information and planting advice.

For ECMG help, call (972) 825-5175, email ecmgahelpdesk@gmail.com, or visit https://txmg.org/ellis/informative-resources.

 

by Robert Franks, ECMG

When Fire (Ants) Erupt!

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It’s the most obvious sign – a grainy dirt mound erupts in the middle of the lawn seemingly overnight. Or maybe one appears adjacent to a sidewalk or between rocks in a garden. Disturb the dirt mound and it’s confirmed when a frenzied horde of imported red fire ants rush in defense.

It’s easy to see why these red devils are both feared and respected. Imported red fire ants are known for their aggressiveness. At only 1/8- to ¼-inch in length, they are tiny in size but mighty in force. They swarm and attack anything that disturbs the nest, relentlessly stinging and biting. And each ant will sting repeatedly, causing intense pain and itchy blisters. Animal and human alike who stumble on a mound will feel their wrath immediately.

Although one sting may not be life threatening, imagine what happens if a child falls on a mound or a young animal is stung hundreds of times. Clearing yards and fields of these combative ants can be vital for some households.

One of the best approaches to treat fire ants is the “two-step method”.  The two-pronged approach treats a wide area first, and then, individual mounds or nests as needed. It is the recommended method when there are more than five mounds in a quarter acre-sized area. The method is simple: first, broadcast a bait insecticide over the entire yard or area once or twice a year. Step two, treat individual mounds with a drench, granule, bait or dust insecticide whenever one pops up.

Broadcast baits are slow but effective. Worker ants take the bait back to nest and over time, other ants and the queen will eat it. Eventually, the queen either dies or becomes infertile. The bait can take from weeks to months to reach 80 to 90% control.

When choosing a bait, make sure the package is fresh and unopened. While it can be applied any time when it is warm, applying it in cooler fall weather is preferred. Not only is it easier to predict weather changes, but leading into winter gives the bait an opportunity to work.

Spread it when the ground is dry and it will not rain for the next day or two. The best time to spread it is late afternoon or evening when ants are foraging. Do not combine it with a fertilizer or seed. Texas A&M AgriLife Extension has a list of ingredients to look for when purchasing fire ant bait: https://research.entomology.tamu.edu/wp-content/uploads/sites/28/2017/04/2017-Fire-Ant-Bait-Misc-Control-Products_4-3-17.pdf.

For individual mound treatments, there are two general alternatives: chemical and organic. Chemical includes dust, liquid drenches, and granular products. They should be applied according to label directions. Organic treatments will kill ants about 60% of the time. It consists of pouring 2 to 3 gallons of extremely hot or boiling water (or botanical insecticides) on a mound. Any ants not killed will move to another location. More information about natural and organic methods can be found on Texas A&M AgriLife Extension’s website at https://lubbock.tamu.edu/files/2015/10/ENTO_009.pdf.

Do not use home remedies such as gasoline or petroleum products. These are dangerous flammable products that will not only kill grass and plants but also pollute the soil and groundwater.

Vigilence is imperative when combating these fierce insects. If mounds are spotted, treated them quickly to minimize expansion.

Red Imported Fire Ant, Solenopsis invicta Buren

Red imported fire ants first arrived in the United States sometime during the 1930s and have spread across nine states. Including Texas, they can be found in all or parts of Tennessee, South Carolina, Georgia, Florida, Alabama, Mississippi, Arkansas, and Oklahoma.

They have few natural predators and can hurt native populations of ants, reptiles, birds and sometimes even young animals. For example, the Texas horned lizard cannot eat them, but the red imported fire ants can attack tender hatchlings. As a result, horned lizard populations may struggle to thrive where these fire ants exist.

Red import fire ants are prolific, and colony populations can increase dramatically in a relatively short time. From egg to adult form can take between 22 and 38 days. Queens can live up to 7 years and once a colony is established, she can produce up to 800 eggs every day. It’s not uncommon for a thriving colony to have between 100,000 and half a million worker ants.

About a year after a colony is established and between spring and fall, hundreds of reproductive winged ants (called alates) are produced. The males and females will take a “mating flight.” The flights generally take place after a rain on a bright, warm day. Anyone with a swimming pool may find evidence of the mating flights – dozens of alates floating in the water.

After mating, the female will look for a suitable nesting location, such as under rocks, leaves or in sidewalk cracks. Within a day of finding a site, she will have dug out a small chamber and laid about a dozen eggs, give or take a few. Within about 23 to 38 days, the first workers will emerge and begin caring for the queen. At this point, she can devote her attention to laying eggs. Within 6 months, the newly formed colony will have exploded into several thousand worker ants.

Common North Texas Ants

To manage indoor ant pests, remove resources: nesting sites, food, and water. Caulk cracks around the home, replace weather stripping around doors and windows. Remove dense vegetation, ivy, and wood piles from around the home and any tree limbs touching the roof. Move mulch and landscape rocks away from foundations. Keep rain gutters clean and check pots for nests before bringing plants into the house. Remove food sources by cleaning spills immediately, storing food in air-tight containers and repairing leaking faucets. If a nest is found, treat it with an insecticide (liquid spray, dusts, fogs, baits, etc.) according to the package directions. Download a 16-page Texas A&M AgriLife Extension PDF for managing ant pests at https://www-aes.tamu.edu/files/2014/06/Managing-Household-Ant-Pests.pdf.

Pyramid Ant

  • 1/8” in length, pyramid-shaped projection on the top of the thorax, red/black or dark brown.
  • Nests in sunny, open sites. Dirt mounds, about 2 to 4 inches in diameter, found around the nest’s entrance hole.
  • Preys on other insects and feeds on aphid and scale honeydew.

Bigheaded ant

  • Major workers (soldier) have large heads relative to the body. Often confused with fire ants but the latter do not have large heads.
  • Nests in protected areas like under rocks, logs, patio blocks, etc.
  • Feeds on live and dead insects, seeds, and aphid and scale honeydew.
  • Considered a predator of fire ant queens.

Pharaoh ant

  • Also called sugar ants or piss ants. Most commonly occurring indoor ant in Texas.
  • Tiny size (1/12 to 1/16 inch in length), light tan to reddish body.
  • Does not bite or sting, nor swarm.
  • Nests usually found indoors (potted plants, light sockets, walls, attics, etc.).
  • Omnivorous, feeds on sweet and fatty foods.

Carpenter ant

  • Fourteen species of carpenter ants are in Texas, the largest is the black carpenter.
  • Size range from ¼ to ½ inch. Top of thorax is evenly convex and has no spines; the attachment between the thorax and abdomen is a single flat segment.
  • Can bite but does not sting.
  • Nests can be found in dead wood or around homes, can also nest under stones and in cracks/crevices. Piles of sawdust-like material under exit holes can indicate a nest.
  • Feeds on decaying fruit, insects, and aphid and scale honeydew.

Crazy ant

  • Small, dark gray to black, long legs and antennae.
  • Named because of their erratic running with no clear sense of direction.
  • Nests in soil, under rocks and logs, and under swimming pools.
  • Feeds on insects (including flea and fly larva), grease and sweets.

by Teresa Brown, ECMG

Sources

National Library of Medicine (2023), Fire Ant Bites.

Texas A&M AgriLife Extension. Texas Imported Fire Ant Research and Management Project. Biology. https://fireant.tamu.edu/learn/biology

Texas A&M AgriLife Extension. Texas Imported Fire Ant Research and Management Project. https://fireant.tamu.edu/controlmethods/products

Texas A&M AgriLife Extension. Managing Household Ant Pests.
https://www-aes.tamu.edu/files/2014/06/Managing-Household-Ant-Pests.pdf

Texas A&M AgriLife Extension. Texas Imported Fire Ant Research and Management Project. Native Ants. https://fireant.tamu.edu/learn/native-ants

Texas A&M AgriLife Extension (3/14). Natural, Organic, and Alternative Methods for Imported Fire Ant Management. https://lubbock.tamu.edu/files/2015/10/ENTO_009.pdf

Texas A&M AgriLife Extension. Texas Imported Fire Ant Research and Management Project. Two-step Method. https://fireant.tamu.edu/controlmethods/twostep

Texas Parks & Wildlife. Texas Horned Lizard Watch 10-year Summary Report. https://tpwd.texas.gov/publications/pwdpubs/pwd_rp_w7000_1442/habitat

USDA (2024). Imported Fire Ants. https://www.aphis.usda.gov/plant-pests-diseases/ifa

Daylily Care After Bloom Season

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As we slip into late fall and winter, there are still things to do in your flower beds even though bloom season is over.

Soil testing – This is a great time to take a soil sample and find out what you might need to add or change to improve the overall health of your flower beds before the busy spring season. You can go to testing.tamu.edu for all the requirements and details.

Keep a journal or make plans – In your journal, you can record first bloom dates, last freeze, best performers, or plants that did not do so well. Draw a sketch of your garden and label how the plants are arranged. What do you want to add? What color schemes do you like the most? What companion plants can you add to extend or enhance your flower beds?

Take action – Once you obtain the results from your soil samples, you can begin making the improvements suggested. Need more iron or magnesium? The winter months are great times to add ironite or Epsom salt to your flower beds. Nitrogen should be added after the last freeze is gone, usually late March to early April in our area. Additional feeding can occur before blooms begin in late April to early May and again in October to November.

Foliage care and cleanup – Evergreen daylilies will retain their green foliage throughout the year unless ice and extreme freezing temperatures occur. Then, the foliage will become frost burned and/or mushy. Unless overly unsightly, just leave the foliage as is until frost conditions are gone and then you can trim off the damaged leaves. Semi-evergreen daylilies will have damaged foliage with any type of prolonged freeze, but again leave as is and remove damaged foliage after last frost chances are gone. Dormant daylilies will lose all their foliage and completely dieback below ground level. Once this has happened you can remove the dead foliage. New growth will appear at the first signs of spring. 

Daylily division – You should divide your daylilies if the clump is bigger than a dinner plate as overcrowding will affect bloom quality and quantity. It is now too late in the year to divide your daylilies, but they can be divided after the last frost. Fall is also a good time to divide daylilies after the heat of summer breaks. Trim the foliage back by two-thirds after dividing to allow the roots to adapt and it’s overall less stress on the plants. 

by Malcolm Avaritt, ECMG

Growing Luffa in North Texas

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I have grown luffa for years from seeds that were given to me a long time ago. I grow them for the sponge they produce, using it as a scrubbing tool around the house, including as a washcloth in the shower. If harvested early when the fruit is young, it is also edible. I think it is very similar to zucchini and can be cooked the same way.

Luffa aegyptiaca is also called sponge gourd, Egyptian cucumber or Vietnamese luffa. I have also heard it called Dish Rag Gourd. It is a member of the cucumber family and there are many cultivars. Common cultivars for Luffa aegyptiaca include Smooth Boy, Smooth Beauty, and South Winner. It is a heat loving, fast growing annual vine that is native to Southeast Asia but can be grown easily here in North Texas. The seeds aren’t that common in big box stores but can sometimes be found in local nurseries.

The vine has three lobed leaves and is a vigorous grower needing something to climb on. Mine have grown as long as 40 feet! They produce a yellow flower, similar to a squash flower. The good news is that it is a pollinator magnet! The fruit itself looks like a large cucumber or zucchini. They are usually around 12 inches long, but I have had some a little bigger than that. When left on the vine, the fruit turns brown and develops a hard shell. That is when you have a luffa pad! Just cut from the vine and cut a little off both ends and then soak in water for a few minutes. The shell will then peel off easily. Let the sponge dry well. Then shake out the seeds from the open ends. You now have a luffa pad to use in the shower or the kitchen! It does soften when it gets wet.  Make sure you save the seeds to plant next Spring!

Plant your luffa seeds in late spring (after the last frost date) or start it indoors four to six weeks before the last average frost date. Select a location that gets full sun. When selecting a location, take into consideration that it could cast shade on the surrounding plants. Plant seeds about 12 to 18 inches apart, about an inch deep in well-draining soil. They prefer slightly acid soil but seem to do well with a pH of 7.0-7.5. My soil in my raised beds has a pH of about 7.2 and that is where I plant my Luffa. It has always done well there. Good drainage is more important than the pH. Luffa does require regular watering, and it is better to water deeply instead of frequently. I give mine about as much water as I give my squash during the summer. Provide a trellis with wires or a fence to allow vining and air circulation. It is less prone to disease if grown off the ground. Luffa that is grown on the ground tends to be curved when mature but if it is hanging on a trellis, it will grow straight. I grow mine on the fence surrounding my chicken yard and it even climbs up the chicken coop. Fertilize with a nitrogen rich fertilizer 2-3 times during the growing season.  Once the summer starts heating up your vine will really take off!

Fruit production of luffa does require pollination. Male and female flowers look similar, but male flowers grow on a long stalk. The flower blooms for one day and then falls off. The female flower grows on a short stalk but has an ovary in the shape of the fruit.

 The pollination of female flowers occurs primarily through bees and other insects, but they can also be hand pollinated in the absence of pollinators.

I have found them to be pretty disease resistant, but luffa can get Downy mildew, powdery mildew, leaf blight, and angular leaf spot.

Rarely, invading pests include cucumber beetles and spider mites. Plant rotation and watering the roots only can help with the spread of diseases.

So, if you’re searching for different edibles to add to your garden or you like the idea of growing
eco-friendly sponges, the luffa plant could be for you!

by Angie McKune, ECMG