Ellis County Master Gardener AssociationTexas A&M AgriLife Extension Service

How I got a Winter Garden through the Freeze

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I planted a winter garden January 2, the day the onion transplants arrived from a Texas farm. In addition to the onions, I planted lettuce, snap peas, and radishes. There were also two veggie plants wintering over. They were veterans of two winters, a Brussels sprout and a kale. So, the January freeze came. Here is how I prepared these plants for cold weather.

Preparation: For an 8 x 4 foot row, I had hoops, frost cloth, and clips on hand. I find I need two packages that t. Also, in my case I had a second cover in the form of a twin fitted sheet.

  1. Scrape back the four or so inches of mulch you have previously put down in preparation. The result should be a wave pattern, with soil at the bottom of the valleys.
  2. Plant or transplant.
  3. Set up the hoops every foot and a half.
  4. Is a frosty night or below freezing weather coming?
    1. Water the garden the day before.
    2. Clip frost cloth to the hoops. Anchor the ends with bricks or pave stones.
    3. Clip the sheet to the frost cloth.
    4. By hand, pull mulch over the plants in the valleys.
  5. Wait out the storm. Safety note: buy some clip-on crampons for your shoes, so that you can walk on ice.
  6. Above freezing again? Pull off the covers, leaving the hoops (or go half-way to save time, if this is only a temporary reprieve. Pull back the mulch.

Results (in my case): There were three nights of freezing temperatures in late January. The temperature got down to 13 degrees one night. There were several kinds of freezing precipitation at the beginning. Most of it fell as sleet, and I think it bounced off the covering, which was clear of clinging ice or snow when I checked. The surrounding ground had an icepack, but the protected part of the garden was clear.

Results by plant, two weeks pot-freeze.

  • Protected onions: They loved it! Under the cover they had thrived, showing growth.
  • Unprotected onions: They survived. I watered them, and two weeks later, they are about 95% back.
  • The radishes had radished, so I harvested about a cup and a half.
  • The lettuce also flourished, enough to thin.
  • The peas were the most tender. The stems had died back, but two weeks later the plants had out secondary stems.
  • Unprotected kale and brussels sprouts, they both survived. We just cut off any foliage that had turned white.

Conclusion: this took minimal time and not much cost. You can single-hand it during set up, but two people can do it a lot quicker.

Pictures:

What I got from Amazon: Two boxes containing light green clips, hoop pieces, connectors that are in the plastic bag. You connect the hoop pieces with the connectors, put up the freeze cloth, plastic sheets, etc. and clip with the light green clips. You can do an Amazon Search for “garden hoops” and “plant covers” or “row covers.” Total outlay in 2026: about $30, assuming you can spare an old twin size fitted sheet. 

 

The fitted sheet was fitted over the freeze cloth. Note the kale plant which I didn’t protect from the freeze. It survived, anyway. This photo was taken in the afternoon before the freeze.

 

 

 

 

Lettuce seedlings above and struggling frost damaged edible pod sugar peas in the foreground.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The onions on the left were protected. They didn’t lose a beat. In fact, they thrived through the freeze. The onions on the right were not protected. Most survived, even the tiny ones, though some had only a quarter inch of green left on the stem. If you order onions, they arrive the first week of January, with the expectation that you will plant them right away,

by Paul Thomas, ECMG

Looking up to Vertical Gardens

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When space is a premium, look up to vertical gardens. Vertical gardens can be an easy solution to space problems. Instead of the garden spreading horizontally on the ground, it grows upward on support panels. And it’s equally perfect in an ample yard or garden as it is in a space-limited patio container.

Vertical gardens have several advantages. Foremost, they are space-savers. They do not take up as much ground space, which is a prized in urban areas. For example, Texas A&M AgriLife Extension recommends that vine crops are planted “two seeds in a group, 4 feet apart in rows about 8 feet apart.” Vertical gardening allows them to be planted a bit closer, about 2-3 feet apart. This means other plants can make use of the ground space. They are also easier on the knees. Crops are produced at eye level are easier to harvest. Aesthetically, the vertical growth creates dimension and visual interest. As a bonus, they can be easily used to create borders, privacy walls and be the focal point.

However, there are some drawbacks that cannot be ignored. Getting started will have a price tag attached to it. Most vertical gardening requires some kind of framework, such as a trellis, wire panel or cage. If situated against structures, there is a risk of moisture being retained, which can lead to mold or discoloration. Just as they can create privacy, they can also block the sunlight. This can be a disadvantage or advantage, depending on the need. Maintenance costs may also increase. Vertical gardens might need more water and fertilizer because the plants are more exposed to the sun and wind. And they may require more pruning to control the growth.

With that said, let’s move on to getting started. Some type of frame is needed for the plants to grow on. Trellises are the easiest choice. They can be placed in new or existing beds, in containers or alongside a wall or fence. They can be arranged to create separate areas like a private sitting spot or in a central location as a focal point.

Arched trellises are lovely as a standalone feature or in raised beds. If used in a raised bed, place each side of the arch in the end of beds to act as a bridge joining one bed to the other. Not only does this configuration become a lovely walking pass-through, but the trellis also serves double duty by supporting plants in each plot. However, do not put an arched trellis over the center of one bed because it will hog the sunshine and shade the plants under it.

An obelisk-type trellis is a lovely stand alone. It can be a decorative trellis tower in the yard, or a humble wire tomato cage secured in a pretty container on a patio. Either one can be a centerpiece with the right plant.

The flat panel trellis is a terrific choice to create a privacy screen for a patio or yard. These trellises can be positioned in the yard adjacent to a fence or outdoor sitting area. Unlike the arched version, they can be placed in the center of a garden plot, allowing plants from both sides of it to access the vertical support.

With the Ellis County Master Gardener Expo coming up on March 28, there is an opportunity to find ideal plants for the vertical garden. Look for (or ask for assistance to find) any that climb or can be trained to climb (by tying new growth to the frame). Also if it’s fruit bearing, keep the mature fruit size in mind. Extra support may be necessary. Some good plants options include raspberries, blackberries, grapes, and passionfruit. Ideal vegetables include pole beans, cucumbers, tomatoes, sugar snap peas, fava beans, zucchini, butternut squash, spaghetti squash and luffa gourds. Trainable plants include mint (use a container for them to keep them from uncontrolled spreading), lemon verbena, thyme and nasturtium. And for color, look for flowering vines like honeysuckle, crossvine, passionvine, Carolina jessamine and trumpet creeper. But avoid tuber plants, like potatoes, carrots, onions and garlic

 

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Sink the trellis at least a foot into the ground to provide substantial support. If heavy fruit-bearing plants are the goal, additional anchor stakes may be necessary. When planting, leave some breathing room between the plant and the trellis. That bit of room will be appreciated when the plants are mature. Water and fertilize as directed for specific plants. Check on them weekly during growing season. Tie growth, if necessary, to the trellis and trim away any excess growth that will not produce fruit or is damaged.

For more in depth reading about the pros and cons as well as different vertical designs, look at the 2022 Australian study “Vertical Greening Systems: A Critical Comparison of Do-It-Yourself Designs.”

by Teresa Brown, ECMG

 

Sources:Dominici, L; Comino, E; Torpy, F. & Irga, P. (25 Nov 2022). Vertical Greening Systems: A Critical Comparison of Do-It-Yourself Designs. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC9739368/#sec5-plants-11-03230

Gardenary (Aug. 7, 2025). The complete guide to vertical gardening.
https://www.gardenary.com/blog/the-complete-guide-to-vertical-gardening

Petal Back Farm. How to grow squash on a trellis. https://petalbackfarm.com/how-to-grow-squash-on-a-trellis

Texas A&M AgriLife Extension. Vegetable Resources. Spaghetti Squash.
https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/vegetable/guides/specialty-vegetables/spaghetti-squash

Produce and Pesticides: What’s Eating You?

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I was recently in a debate with a friend over whether to wash grapes before eating them. Besides the germs from other people handling them before I bring them home, I felt washing them before eating would, hopefully, remove residual pesticides that could be harmful to my body and the bodies of those I love. My friend stated she didn’t think there was any risk from harmful pesticides. So, I decided to investigate this a little further.

There are three organizations that monitor all produce in the United States (or imported from other countries) for pesticides. Those three organizations are: U.S. Environmental Protection  Agency (EPA), U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA), and the Food and Drug Administration (FDA). Here is a breakdown of what each of these organizations do:

  • EPA: Sets tolerances, which are the maximum amount of any pesticide allowed to remain in or on a food, as part of the process of regulating pesticides. Tolerances in some countries are referred to as maximum residue limits (MRLs).
  • USDA and FDA: These organizations are responsible for enforcing these tolerances. If any pesticide residue is found above the established limits, the affected food products may be seized or be subject to other enforcement actions.

I discovered that there are allowable limits or tolerances of pesticides on our foods and, overall, most of our produce items fall within the safety limits of those guidelines. The USDA reports these findings annually:

  • Over 99% of produce samples have residues below EPA safety limits
  • 25-30% have no detectable residues at all
  • When residues exist, they are typically 100-1,000 times lower than the EPA limit
  • Foods for children (applesauce, baby carrots, juices) consistently test safe.

Then, I learned there is a myth going around that stated the number on a produce item related to how clean their growing process was. The fact is there is no U.S. agency that uses letters on produce to indicate pesticide use, residue levels or safety. What is regulated are the pesticide limits with large safety margins by the EPA; produce testing to ensure pesticide residues stay far below those limits by the USDA; and enforced compliance of grocery stores and imports by the FDA.

What is not regulated: No letters on produce; no color codes; no symbols indicating pesticide danger; and no “secret code” for pesticides. Where this myth seems to be coming from is social media posts that confuse PLU codes with pesticide labeling rules.  In addition to this is the misinterpretation of organic versus conventional labeling and viral graphics claiming letters mean toxic, which does not match any U.S. regulation.  When a letter is seen on a produce sticker, it is part of a brand logo, inventory system or variety name and is not a pesticide warning. These codes help stores ring up produce correctly and that is all.

My next question was where does organically grown produce fall within all these facts.  Organic produce is reported to still be at risk for residual pesticides from natural pesticides or from environmental drift of pesticides. Environmental drift of pesticides means pesticides that travel beyond the field where they were sprayed and land somewhere else because of wind or air movement. However, these trace residues are considered to be very low and still fall within the EPA standards.

Since there is still a slight risk (even for organically grown produce) for pesticides to remain on our produce, I wanted to find out what is the best way to remove that risk from our produce. Not to be left out of the “myth” category, here are the myths I found related to cleaning residual pesticides from our produce.

  • Myth 1: You need special produce wash to remove pesticides.

Fact: Research from multiple universities have reported that produce washes are not any better than plain water for removing residues or microbes.

  • Myth 2: Dish detergents or soaps clean produce better.

Fact: Soaps are not considered to be “food safe” and can leave residues you don’t want to ingest. Remember that produce is porous and, therefore, can absorb soap.

  • Myth 3: A quick water rinse is all you need to remove residual pesticides and microbes.

Fact: It is recommended to rinse firm produce for 20-30 seconds while rubbing the surface to remove more dirt, microbes and residues.

  • Myth 4: A solution of vinegar and water removes pesticides.

Fact: While vinegar helps to remove microbes, it is only moderately more effective for pesticide removal. It is fine to use, but isn’t actually better than water for most produce.

  • Myth 5: Washing with baking soda is pointless.

Fact: A baking soda soak is a very effective home method to remove pesticides from produce. Studies have shown that a solution of 1 teaspoon of baking soda in 2 cups of water and soaking for 12-15 minutes can be more effective at removing surface residues from apples and similar products.

  • Myth 6: Organically grown produce doesn’t need washing.

Fact: Organic produce can still carry dirt, microbes and natural pesticide residues. Washing is always recommended for all produce regardless of how it was grown.

  • Myth 7: It is unnecessary to peel if you wash well enough.

Fact: While peeling removes nearly all surface residues, it also removes fiber and nutrients. Consider peeling to be an option but not a requirement.

  • Myth 8: Washing produce in bleach water is a good method to remove pesticides and microbes.

Fact: You should never use bleach on produce, even if diluted with water. The bottom line is that bleach is not safe for direct contact with food and can cause illness.

Here is a list of what does work and is safe:

  • Rinse produce under running water
  • Rub or brush firm produce, if possible
  • Dry with a clean towel
  • Peel, if so desired
  • Use a baking soda soak for apples, cucumbers, potatoes, etc.

So, where does this leave me in the debate with my friend? I will still argue that all my fresh produce will need at least a good rinse under running water, but I don’t think I’ll buy any commercial produce washes. I also believe it is up to all consumers to do their own research on this topic. My research findings here are just the tip of the iceberg of what is out on the internet regarding the concerns of pesticides on our produce. I strongly encourage anyone who is interested in this topic to go online and research to your heart’s content. If you do so, I hope you find it as interesting as I have!

 

Source:

US Environmental Protection Agency. (Jan. 6, 2026). Regulation of Pesticide Residues on Food.
https://www.epa.gov/pesticide-tolerances

 

by Beth Norris, ECMG

Renewing the Garden at Clift Elementary

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In September, I was contacted by our president of the Ellis County Master Gardeners Association (ECMGA), Susan Knapp, about a request received by LaSheka Day, 4H Extension Agent for Prairie View A&M at Ellis County. It was a request from Kristy Weir, a teacher at Clift Elementary in Waxahachie seeking assistance and direction to revive the existing gardens at the school, which have been dormant for about a year.

Oliver E. Clift is a K-5 grade school located at 650 Parks School House Road in Waxahachie; it was previously a middle school. The school has approximately 500 students and about 50 faculty/staff members. The school’s garden was created around 2011 or 2012 and is located at the back of the building. There is also a chicken coop in the main garden and a registered Monarch butterfly way station on one side of the building.

After touring the gardens, it was obvious that lots of hard work, planning, and dedication have gone into the creation and maintenance of these gardens. There are currently 6 long beds (16 feet) split in half.  I took a few photos, measurements, offered a few suggestions and recommendations, and shared the Jr. Master Gardener (JMG) program/curriculum with Ms. Weir.

Ms. Weir along with fellow teacher Jessica Phillips are committed to reviving the garden and wanted to start an after-school garden club with third- through fifth-grade students. The Clift Garden Club held its first meeting on October 2 with approximately 25 students. The club meets every Thursday from 4-5 p.m.

The JMG program being used is the Learn, Grow, Eat & Go, which is a research and evidence-based curriculum that combines academic achievement, gardening, nutrient-dense food experiences, physical activity, and school and family engagement.

With the garden being dormant for a while, the first task was to clean up the garden, so we planned a Clean-up Day for October 16, 2025. The students made posters and put them all over the school. We had parents, students, and teachers chopping, pulling, and trimming weeds. Because the ground was so dry, we were not able to get all the weeds, but we made a huge difference. We will have more clean-up days ahead before we’re ready to plant anything. Thanks to everyone who participated. We will always need volunteers.

Anita Barnes, ECMGA Master Gardener, taught and worked at Clift for about 9 years, and started the first Garden Club as part of a Positive Behavior Initiative, which the school did every six weeks. She also stated that there were many who were instrumental and worked tirelessly by contributing their time, expertise, and knowledge to get the garden started. A few of those include:

  • Brewster, former principal
  • Donna Richey
  • Christi Kubin, former principal
  • Arlene Hamilton, Retired MG
  • John Paul Deenin
  • Portia Wood
  • Waxahachie ISD Education Foundation (funded several grants)
  • LaSheka Day, 4H Extension Agent for Prairie View A&M at Ellis County
  • Burt Plunkett

School gardening can make lasting differences in the lives of children. Research shows that school gardens nurture healthy kids, foster environmental stewardship, promote engaged learning and empower children to make change. Gardening also fosters critical thinking, observation, engagement, and reasoning skills in children, while teaching them the value of responsibility and reliability.

There have also been many students, parents, teachers, and community members who have contributed their time, donated supplies, etc. to this project. The ECMGA is excited about taking on this partnership with Clift Elementary and look forward to working with the Clift community.

If you would like to contribute, volunteer, or get involved with the garden, please contact the school at (972) 923-4720.

By Agnes Douglas, ECMG

2026 Expo Plant Buying

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As the March 28th, 2026, EXPO is approaching, we thought we would take a quick peek at the Ellis County Master Gardener plant committee to see what they do behind the scenes to help make the plant sale happen.

First, the plant committee reviews last year’s EXPO to discuss what plants sold well and which ones were not as popular. Typically, the EXPO plant sale includes perennials, herbs, assorted vegetables, shade loving and annual plants. With an assortment this large, plus whatever plants might be newer or unusual, it requires good communications with our vendors.

Additionally, we have a budget that is approved by our board members, otherwise it would be easy to just go on a spending spree with all those beautiful plants and the spring weather calling us to go into the garden.

Next comes the allocation of which plants to buy versus which plants are available and at what price. Weather plays a big role in what is available for purchase, and most vendors have to decide which plants to grow by October (or sooner). So, sometimes plant selection can be limited due to extreme weather conditions regardless of how much we originally wanted to buy it.

Next comes the experience of having been there/done that. Having team members who have previous experience with working the EXPO plant sale helps ensure that we have a plan in place for a successful sale. 

The day prior to the EXPO is a busy day of setting up protective floor coverings, lining out the tables and organizing the plants as they arrive (hopefully, not at the same time). This usually involves moving something down, at least once, so as to have room, leave room, and make room for the next load of plants that will be arriving soon from the next vendor.

Finally, the morning of EXPO is here and our customers usually line up early before the doors open to make a dash for the must-have plants for their garden. Don’t worry if you are not the first in line, the plant committee has done their job to make sure that there is both quantity and quality. 

We look forward to seeing you at the 2026 EXPO and helping you find the plants that fit your gardening needs.

By Malcolm Avaritt, ECMG

It’s been 20 Fabulous Years of Ellis County Master Gardeners Calendars

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The anniversary edition of the ECMG calendar is now available, marking a 20th year milestone. It’s chalk full of monthly gardening checklists, timely advice, moon phases, holidays, community happenings, and rainfall statistics. You can pick up your copy at sponsoring businesses or at events where the Master Gardeners are present, such as farmers markets in Waxahachie, Midlothian, and Ennis or the Ellis County Master Gardeners Expo.

For the past 2 decades, the Ellis County Master Gardeners have published a calendar packed with valuable guidance for local gardeners. Each year, about 5,000 copies are printed and distributed to gardeners throughout Ellis County — that’s almost 100,000 calendars since its inception.

The idea for the calendar came from Pam Daniel during her first year as a Master Gardener. She saw the need for resources to advance the mission of providing horticultural education in the community and believed a printed calendar was an ideal solution. Thanks to Pam’s initiative, a committee was formed to create the calendar, which involved various duties such as finding sponsors, collecting details on local events, and researching and writing articles. The calendar’s success is evident both in its popularity among Ellis County residents and in its receipt of two state-wide awards for educational content. Pam has remained on the committee since its beginning. Other long-serving committee members include Linda Ballard (since 2011), Sheila Cloonen (since 2015), and Scotty Rigsby (since 2017).

The continued success of the calendar of more than 20 years is thanks to our generous sponsors. Their support allows us to offer calendars at no cost to local gardeners. Several businesses have supported the calendar every single year: The Greenery, Travis Equip. Co., Tex-Scapes, Boyce Feed & Grain, and Pam Daniel, REALTOR®. When you visit these sponsors, please thank them for their ongoing commitment!

By Donna Summerlin, ECMG

See the January What To Do In The Garden page:

Exploring El Niño and La Niña and Their Impact on Our Summer Garden

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Most, if not all, of us have heard the meteorologists talk about the “little boy” or “little girl.” In terms of weather, they are more recognizable as El Niño and La Niña. These weather patterns have become a part of our weekly forecast, but some of us may have missed the memo explaining what they are and why we hear about them every year.

At the simplest description, they are naturally occurring climate patterns that have global impact. Typically, in the Pacific Ocean along the equatorial belt, there is a constant, reliable east-to-west wind. It’s called a trade wind. Sailors used the steady trade winds to help propel them westward across the ocean. For history buffs, the name “trade” comes from Middle English or Middle Low German referencing a route or passageway. It’s akin to the Old English word tredan (meaning to tread) and the Old High German trata (meaning track). Trade winds typically blow warm water from South America to Asia. However, El Niño and La Niña interrupt that pattern.

Together, El Niño and La Niña are weather developments known as El Niño-Southern Oscillation, or ENSO (pronounced en-so), cycle. They typically (but not always) will occur every two to seven years. El Niño lasts about 9 to 12 months while La Niña can last 2 years or more. Generally, they develop in the spring months and peak sometime between November and February. From March through June, they tend to be weak. And usually, El Niño occurs more than its counterpart, La Niña.

When El Niño occurs, the trade winds falter and weaken. The weaker winds may not push as much warm water toward Asia, or it may completely be reversed, and the warm waters move eastward toward the west coast of North and South America. The warm waters, in turn, affect the jet stream, shifting it more southernly. This change causes Canada and the northern U.S. states to be warmer and drier than what is normally expected. However, along the Gulf Coast and southeastern U.S. states, the weather will be wetter and flooding can occur.

La Niña is the opposite of its weather “sibling.” The trade winds become stronger, pushing more warm water eastward toward Asia. Cold water from the ocean depths rise and push the jet stream in a northern direction, which creates drought in the southern parts of the United States and rains with flooding in the northern areas. During a La Niña cycle, winter temperatures will be warmer in the south and cooler in the north. It can also enhance hurricane development.

This year, the National Weather Service has predicted a La Niña cycle, peaking in December. They are predicting warmer than average temperatures with lower precipitation in North and Central Texas. Warer temperatures in the winter can be a welcome experience, but lower precipitation is not good news. It could mean we have drier summer ahead, which means more watering. Or maybe we plan differently and opt for different strategies, such as drought-tolerant plants. Whatever we do, understanding how the “little boy” or “little girl” weather patterns affect us is more knowledge in our pocket to help us succeed in our gardening efforts.

 

If this information seems like an overload, here’s a simplified chart showing differences at a glance.

 

 

El Niño

La Niña

Pacific Ocean temperature in central and eastern equatorial Pacific

Warmer than average.

Colder than average.

Trade winds

Weaker than normal or reversed.

Stronger than normal.

Jet stream and resulting rain or drought

Pushing south, creating warmer and drier conditions in the northern U.S., but wetter in southern U.S.

Pushing north, creating drought in southern U.S. and rains in Pacific Northwest.

Hurricane season

Suppresses activity.

Enhances activity.

How long will it last

Usually 1 to 2 years.

Up to 3 years.

In our area, we have an equal chance of temperatures remaining normal for this time of year. Unlike those to our south who will likely experience warmer temperatures. Source: National Weather Service, Seasonal Temperature outlook. https://www.weather.gov/arx/winter2526outlook

The 2025-2026 outlook for seasonal precipitation indicates we have an opportunity for normal rainfall, while most northern states will be wetter and those south of us will be drier. Source: National Weather Service, Winter 2025-26 Outlook. https://www.weather.gov/arx/winter2526outlook

 

By Teresa Brown, ECMG

Sources:

  • Merriam-Webster Dictionary. (n.d.) Trade. https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/trade
  • National Ocean Service, National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. (Jan. 18, 2016.) El Niño and La Niña: Frequently asked questions. https://www.climate.gov/news-features/understanding-climate/el-nino-and-la-nina-frequently-asked-questions
  • National Ocean Service, National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. (n.d.) What are El Niño and La Niña? https://oceanservice.noaa.gov/facts/ninonina.html
  • National Ocean Service, National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration. (n.d.). What are trade winds? https://oceanservice.noaa.gov/facts/tradewinds.html
  • National Weather Service. (Oct. 9, 2025.) El Niño/La Niña Information. https://www.weather.gov/fwd/enso

…a gardener’s recipes: Fried Green Tomatoes

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So, with the forecast low at 29 degrees F tonight, I decided that it’s time for the final tomato harvest. I won’t pull the vine yet, because I’m curious to see if the vine can survive (or if the forecast is inaccurate).

So, here’s the one celebrity tomato plant that survived the summer with my benign neglect. I hardly ever watered it.

The harvest included one purple bell pepper. 

 

The recipe we use is inspired by Allrecipe’s Perfect Fried Green Tomatoes.

Fried Green Tomatoes

  • 4 green tomatoes
  • 1 cup flour
  • 1 cup buttermilk
  • 1 cup cornmeal

Cajun seasoning

  • 2-1/2 teaspoons paprika
  • 2 teaspoons garlic powder
  • 1-1/4 teaspoon oregano
  • 1-1/4 teaspoon thyme
  • 2 teaspoon ground cayenne pepper
  • 2 teaspoon salt
  • 1 teaspoon onion powder
  • Oil (for frying)

 

Preheat oil, 2 to 3 inches deep, to 350 degrees (F) in a deep fryer or deep-frying pan.

Slice the tomatoes into quarter-inch slices; set them aside.

Make a batter with the flour, buttermilk and corneal by mixing them together.

Mix the Cajun seasoning together and add to the batter.

Dip the slices into the batter and immediately slide them into the hot oil.

Fry the tomato slices, turning as needed, until they are golden brown, crispy and float on the oil, about 2 to 3 minutes.

Remove and drain on paper towels.

Dip the slices in Ranch dressing mixed with the Cajun seasoning.

And pair the tomatoes with the movie “Fried Green Tomatoes at the Whistlestop Cafe.” The Whistle Stop Cafe is a real place. The movie is hilarious, of the kind that you get more out of with multiple viewings.

Finally, about those celebration tomatoes. They seemed to stop producing the minute the mercury hit 90. No amount of water or fertilizer helped. In prior seasons, I used the variety 4th of July and it did well. It thrives in hot weather, thus the name. I may go that way this year, even though I’ll have to start them myself.

Amazon Video: Fried Green Tomatoes/Fried Green Tomatoes At The Whistle Stop Cafe 1991 Comedy/Drama FullMovie Facts

Apple TV: ‎Fried Green Tomatoes – Apple TV

I think I got whatever new text added incorporated here. I also copied the photos from the extra article and pasted them here. I know those photos may not be useable but I wanted you to see the extra photos he posted.

By Paul Thomas, ECMG

Mistletoe

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Mistletoe has long been known as a holiday decoration and romantic tradition; if you walk under it, you share a kiss with whoever is nearby. However, this symbol of love ends when it comes to our trees. 

Phoradendron tomentosum, the Mistletoe, is a parasitic plant that attaches itself to trees and shrubs. It is commonly found on oaks, pecans, elms and hackberries. It is considered parasitic because it robs the host plant of nutrients and water (the leafy mistletoe only takes water from its host plant). Over time, tree branches can weaken, and tree growth is inhibited. If left untouched, an infestation can eventually kill the tree. It is also poisonous to humans, dogs, cats and horses, although birds and some animals depend on the berries as a food supply.

The leafy mistletoe is spread through birds. They will eat the berries, which are sticky. The berries make their way through the birds’ body and are eventually expelled in droppings that land on branches. The berries can also be transferred to branches by sticking to the bird’s legs and getting rubbed off. The seed germinates on the tree’s bark and within a couple of years, it has developed a root system. Then, a new mistletoe plant emerges.

Most mistletoe plants reach 12 to 18 inches in diameter. It has small, round leaves, thick stems and, in the winter, white berries. Often a bulge developed where the plant is attached to a branch. Spotting mistletoe plants in deciduous trees is simple in the winter. Mistletoe is evergreen. When a tree loses its leaves in the winter, the mistletoe will stand out as a bushy green growth on a branch. 

The most effective management treatment for mistletoe is removal. The branch with growth should be pruned 12 or more inches below the attachment point. In this way, the entire root system is excised. Snipping off only the green mistletoe growth will enable the parasite plant to grow back stronger.

by Teresa Brown, ECMG

 

Sources:

Texas A&M AgriLife Extension. (n.d.) Mistletoe. https://plantclinic.tamu.edu/calendar2018/mistletoe

The Ultimate Guide: A Monthly Gardener’s Companion. (2024). IPM Note. Mistletoe—the kissing plant.  

[Source for the photos: Texas A&M AgriLife Extension. (n.d.) Mistletoe. https://plantclinic.tamu.edu/calendar2018/mistletoe]