Current News Articles

Fall Lawn Fertilizing

October 5, 2014 by lheideman

by Bonnah Boyd, Somervell County Master Gardener

Fall lawn fertilization is equally as important as spring fertilization. It prolongs fall color, increases winter hardiness, promotes earlier spring green-up and helps maintain a dense turf that resists winter weeds.

The best way to pinpoint the time to fertilize is by monitoring your mowing frequency. When you don’t need to mow for 2 weeks, the time to fertilize is at hand. In general, fall fertilization of warm-season grasses should occur between October 1 and 15 in this area.

Fertilizers used in the fall should be high in nitrogen and potassium and low in phosphorus (or no phosphorus). A 2-1-2 or 1-0-1 ratio of nutrients is preferred. The fertilizer should be a combination of quick-and slow-release nitrogen portion of the forms to encourage production of carbohydrates. These carbohydrates are then stored in the roots for use in earlier spring greening of the lawn and as an energy source for the grass during winter stress.

The amount of fertilizer to apply is 1 pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. Look on the fertilizer bag for guidance on how much area the bag will cover. (Some organic fertilizers contain less than half the nitrogen of “conventional” or chemical fertilizers. Be sure to apply enough organic fertilizer to gain the results you expect.)

The easiest way to broadcast lawn fertilizer is by using a walk-behind spreader on wheels. To spread the calculated amount of fertilizer evenly across the entire lawn, follow these guidelines:

Determine how many sections you have in the lawn that you can easily walk the spreader around without stopping, going across driveways, or through gates.
Divide the amount of fertilizer proportionally based on the number and size of sections.
Divide each section’s fertilizer amount in half, and pour half into the spreader.
Cut back the spreader setting to the smallest opening that still lets the fertilizer pellets flow out of the hopper easily. Be careful not to apply too much fertilizer too fast.
Turn the spreader on, and walk it north to south across the lawn and keep going back and forth until the spreader is empty.
Fill the spreader with the other half of the section’s fertilizer, and walk the spreader east to west, back and forth, until the spreader is empty.
Water the lawn thoroughly to activate the fertilizer and prevent fertilizer burn on the grass.

Try not to fertilize prior to a predicted heavy rain. Nitrogen, and other fertilizer nutrients, can easily run off in heavy rains into the storm sewers and into creeks and streams. Nitrogen can cause an “algae bloom” that consumes oxygen in the water to the point of killing fish.

Reference: Doug Welch’s TEXAS GARDEN ALMANAC

Community Horticultural Education Series

August 31, 2014 by lheideman

Somervell County Master Gardeners Present

The Community Horticultural Education Series

A Special “Back To School” Program

“Ask A Master Gardener”

Monday, September 8th at 6:30 pm

Citizens Center, 209 SW Barnard, Glen Rose

A panel discussion lead by Master Gardeners will answer your questions about what to do in the garden this time of year, and try to find the answers to any other gardening questions you might have. Bring a picture or a cutting, and we will help you identify that “mystery plant” you’ve been wondering about. Come and enjoy a lively and informative conversation.
Bring your questions to the meeting, or better yet, email them ahead of time to Shirley Smith, ssmith7003@gmail.com
We always have great door prizes, handouts and refreshments.
Remember, this program is free and open to the public. See you on the 8th of September!

Purple Passion Vine ( Passiflora incarnata)

August 31, 2014 by lheideman

by Shirley Smith, Somervell County Master Gardener

Purple passion vine to me conjures up visions of exotic places, a rain forest perhaps or the sounds of the rolling surf. But, thankfully, this beautiful plant resides in my side yard, and it’s extremely happy to be here.

The purple fashion-flower is an herbaceous vine growing up to 25 feet long and clings by way of axillary tendrils or sprawls along the ground. It has intricate, 3” lavender flowers on a short stalk. One common name is Maypop, which comes from the hollow, yellow fruits that “pop” loudly when crushed. This unusual flower is distributed widely from Florida to Texas. The plants were given the name Passionflower or Passion vine because the floral parts are said to represent aspects of the Christian crucifixion story, sometimes referred to as the Passion. The 10 petal-like parts represent disciples of Jesus, excluding Peter and Judas; the 5 stamens the wounds Jesus received; the knob-like stigmas the nails used to hang Him on the cross; the fringe the crown of thorns.

My Passion vine is the host plant for the Gulf Fritillary butterfly. And, oh my, do they love this plant! This year seems to have been a particularly good year for the GF butterfly. They (the butterflies) did not arrive until my Passion vine had really grown to a good size. And when the GF got here, the females began at once to alight, touch their abdomens to a leaf and deposit a very tiny, yellow egg. After a few days, the eggs began to hatch and the tiny ½” long caterpillar emerged. And it was ravenous! Because my Passion vine was so well established, all the hungry babies did not seem to phase it. It grew faster than the GF caterpillars could eat it! The vine is blooming now and the flowers are beautiful!

Not only is this plant the host to several other buttlerflies (Zebra Longwing, Crimson-patch Longwing, Red-banded Hairstreak, Julia Butterfly, Mexican Butterfly), but the American Indians consumed the fruit. The Indians would poultice the roots for boils, cuts, earaches and inflammation. A tea was brewed to sooth nerves and treat insomnia.

My plant dies back to the ground each winter. This year, I had mulched it heavily so when those two freezes hit it was not harmed. Can’t beat a good layer of mulch (think very warm blanket) for protecting plants during the winter as well as conserving moisture during our hot, dry summers.

The Purple passion plant may be propagated by seeds or cuttings. I have had success in just digging up a piece that comes up where I don’t want it, burying it in the ground and then keeping it well watered for the next couple of weeks. To have such delicate flowers, this plant is very hardy for our climate. My plant is growing on a two-rail split rail fence in full sun. I have had to add additional string for it to climb on.

So, if you have a chance (and a place) to grow this plant, don’t hesitate. You will not be disappointed.

Source: Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center (Internet) (Native Plant Database)

Wild Clematis (Clematis vitalba)

August 31, 2014 by lheideman

by Sheryl Kleinschmidt, Somervell County Master Gardener

Mother Nature has surprised me once again. Just when I think I’ve seen it all, she displays another species right under my nose and sticks out her tongue to say, “Nanny-nanny boo-boo— look what I can do!”

This time it was the wild clematis. I discovered it growing on the old barn behind my house about a week ago as I walked up the driveway to my truck. Thinking I was seeing things, I quickly walked closer to observe an abundance of creamy-white blossoms trailing down from a height of about 15 feet.

Having lived in the same location for six years, this is the first time I’ve seen the clematis in bloom and assume the seeds either blew in or were dropped by birds last year. I took a small cutting to a very knowledgeable neighbor who identified it for me and I began researching the plant. It was confusing at first due to the large number of varieties—some wild, some not (there are hundreds).

After close examination, I discovered that the variety growing behind my house is the Clematis vitalba. It is described as a fast-growing woody vine that can climb up to 30’ (sometimes taller) and has an undetermined amount of ground spread.

The wild clematis is known by many common names such as Old Man’s Beard, Traveler’s Joy, Devil’s Darning Needle, Virgin’s Bower and Woodbine. Its bright green leaves make a great backdrop for large masses of white flowers which bloom late summer to autumn. It is an import from Europe and southwestern Asia — not native to America. Maybe that accounts for it not being affected by many pests here.

Once done flowering, the lingering style remains with long, silky hairs trailing down on all sides—thus the name Old Man’s Beard. When dried, the seeds are propagated by wind and animals, much like milkweed is spread.

The wild clematis is a very adaptable plant and is viable in Zones 4-8. It will grow in shade or sun but does prefer afternoon shade. It will tolerate most soil types and can do quite well in drought situations. However, given the opportunity and lots of moisture, it will “go to town”.

Some of our northwestern states (Washington, Oregon) consider the wild clematis to be an invasive plant as their cooler, wetter climate is conducive to vigorous growth. There, it has been seen to grow as tall as 100 feet into the treetops smothering many old-growth native trees. It is also prolific under bridges, in wood margins and hedgerows. Actually, it has become such a nuisance that the nurseries no longer keep it in stock as a garden plant.

The vines behind my house are welcome, however, and have a wonderful, sweet scent that attracts bees, butterflies and hummingbirds. As a matter of fact, I intend to take some cuttings and will watch in anticipation of the bearded seeds this fall.

Until then, I’ll just enjoy the view…………

Let’s Go To Agaritaville

August 3, 2014 by lheideman

By Sheryl Kleinschmidt, Master Gardener

I don’t know whether or not Jimmy Buffett ever went to Agaritaville, but if he’d ever tasted the wine, I’m sure he’d return and play his six-string for us!

The first time I can remember seeing agarita (Berberis trifoliate), was at my great uncle’s ranch down in south Texas on the Nueces River. The landscape there reminds me a lot of Somervell County except there are no hills—it’s as flat as a pancake. The caliche soil there lends itself to the proliferation of agarita just as the shallow limestone soil does here.

Uncle Louis was an old-time rancher who lived off the land as much as possible. I can remember being intrigued by some of the things he would show and tell me from time to time when I visited him. Once he showed me the agarita shrubs and told me that he and his family had always collected the little, red berries by placing an old sheet under the bushes and beating them with a stick. But, it was a game of cat and mouse to get to the berries before the birds ate them all!

His family would then either make homemade jelly or wine, which they coveted. It took a lot of those tiny berries to make enough juice for either.

Agarita grows 3’-6’ tall with a spread about the same size. Its foliage is bluish-green and resembles holly. Small yellow flowers begin to develop some time around February attracting honeybees and butterflies alike. The red fruit sets not long thereafter.

Being a Texas native, agarita requires little water. The deer do not like its prickly leaves, but they make a good habitat for nesting birds.

If you are fortunate enough to have agarita on your property (or a friend’s) you might develop a real palate for either the wine or the jelly. Below is a recipe for agarita jelly which is stored in the freezer rather than put into a water bath and canned.

AGARITA JELLY

Gather enough berries to make two quarts. Wash thoroughly, removing any debris such as leaves, stems, etc. Put berries into a large pot and cover with water. Bring to a boil and steep until the berries begin to pop open. Remove from the heat. Using a potato masher, squash the juice out of the berries.

In another pot, bring 4 cups agarita juice to a boil. Add 3 cups of sugar, let it come to a boil again, then add one box of No-Sugar Needed Fruit Pectin. Boil for one minute, cool and pour into freezer containers. Keep frozen til needed.

~****~

“Wasted away in Agaritaville,

Searchin’ for my last spoonful of jel-ly….”

Dog Days of Summer

July 6, 2014 by lheideman

by Bonnah Boyd, Somervell County Master Gardener

This phrase refers to the sultry days of summer. In the Northern Hemisphere the dog days of summer are most commonly experienced in the months of July and August.

The phrase has an ancient astrological origin. The Romans noted that the brightest star, Sirius in the Big Dog constellation (Canis Major) was lined up with the sun during the hottest time of the year. This conjunction was believed to cause the peak heat of summer. The Old Farmers’ Almanac lists the traditional period as the 40 days beginning July 3 and ending August 11.

Many events are often planned during the “Dog Days”. These include dog contests and pictures, parties, sports tournaments at the beach, baseball games and tours, with or without your dog.

If you plan a summer vacation during this time, don’t forget the plants, both indoors and out. Below is a checklist of activities to do for your garden and plants prior to leaving.

Water: Irrigate landscape and garden thoroughly. If you have a vegetable garden, have a neighbor water, as needed. Many containerized plants need watering at least every third day to survive the heat. Group containers together in easy reach of the water hose.

Mow: Mow and trim your lawn the day before you leave. The lawn may need to be mowed a week later, so either be home then or make arrangements for weekly mowing.

Weed: Pull, spray or mulch over existing weeds in the garden and landscape.

Prune: Check roses, perennials and annual flowers to determine if they need deadheading.

Mulch: Mulching preserves water in the soil, reduces soil temperatures, reduces weed populations and gives a fresh look to the garden.

Do a pest check: Check for insects and diseases. Take action to control populations of insects pests that are present. Diseases are less prevalent in the summer, but check for fungal diseases, such as black spot and blight. Apply a fungal spray as needed.

Harvest: In the vegetable garden, harvest all ripe and nearly ripe fruit. Call a neighbor to come harvest for you, if you are going to be gone for more than a week.

Reference: Doug Welch’s Texas Garden Almanac