Q: When do I need to trim my crape myrtles? I see a lot of them being trimmed now and some are taking a lot off and others not so much. How much do I trim and when?
A: Now is a good time to do cosmetic trimming to shape up the plant and remove damaged limbs or those growing in inconvenient places. For example, if a branch is in the way when you mow, or if it taps on the window or rain gutter in a gentle breeze, consider removing it. “Suckers” growing from the ground may be removed at any time. But here’s a crucial point: crape myrtle experts advise never “topping” one of these hardy, beautiful Texas native plants. Giving it a flattop or crew cut is likely to yield disappointing results. If your crape myrtle is located where you have no choice but to top it, consider moving the plant instead. On the other hand, if you really must top the plant, it will probably not kill your crape myrtle – but you might not be happy with its appearance.
Early Blooming Trees
Q: Some of my trees are putting on leaves and buds. Will a frost or freeze damage my trees or kill them?
A: There is very little that you can do when we have freezing temperatures. Some of the trees and shrubs have begun to bud out as a result of the unseasonably warm temperatures. Small things can be covered. The trees should be fine.
Trimming Live Oaks
Q: I have several Live Oak trees that have begun to get in my way when I try to mow around them; the lower limbs keep hitting me in the face. I have been told to trim them in the hottest part of the summer or in winter. Which is the best time to trim the limbs and not be concerned about Oak Wilt?
A: It depends on which “expert” you talk to. The most widely recommended time and the one that has been recommended longer than the other is in winter during the coldest months, late December to mid February. That is the time period in which the disease spreading insects are definitely not active. Be certain that your trimming equipment is clean and sterile before you begin. If you trim more than one tree clean and sterilize the equipment before moving to the next tree. Be careful to not cut too close to the trunk of the tree or to leave to long of a stub. When cutting with a saw make a small cut on the bottom of the branch 3 or 4 inches out from the tree then finish cutting from the top 3 or 4 inches out from the first cut, this keeps the limb from dropping and pulling the bark off the tree below the cut. When the main part of the limb you are removing is off, then go back and remove the stub. Try to leave at least a quarter of an inch of the limb, that will heal over faster than if cut flat to the tree. I still recommend pruning paint to seal the cuts, but if the cuts are made in winter the area should dry out and not be attractive to the insect before spring. For lack of space this is the fast answer, for more details contact a certified Nursery Professional or a Certified Arborist.
Funny Colored Boxwood Hedge
Q: My boxwood hedge has a funny color to it, is something wrong and what do I need to do?
A: Boxwood, particularly Japanese Boxwood will change colors in cold, but will return to normal color in spring. The last growth of the season is sometimes freeze burned which is not a problem. Simply cut it off before or as the new growth begins.
Yellow Dwarf Yaupons
Q: We have 30 dwarf yaupons in our front and back gardens and 7 of them have turned yellow. They have been in the ground for about 10 years and the roots may be affected by our caliche limestone based soil. What treatments can be done and when?
A: First let me warn you that even with treatment, the hollies may never completely green up. Once the roots begin growing into the limestone it is very difficult to get enough product into the soil to do any good. It can be like trying to dilute the salty water of the sea with a few buckets of fresh water. My recommendation is to use a good slow acting high nitrogen based fertilizer at least twice a year and supplement with a granulated Iron product. A Chelated Iron product that can be mixed with water and sprayed on the plants periodically may help to green them up some, but most likely they will remain partially yellow or will gradually go back to yellow over time and the treatments will need to be repeated. This can be a few weeks to a few months or longer. Iron products will stain cement, concrete, brick, tile, light colored stone and terracotta very easily and most times permanently.
Oak tree turning brown
Q: We planted an oak tree several years ago and now it is turning brown what is wrong, it should have grown enough deep roots by now to be alright what can we do for it?
A: It can take a tree any where from 3 to 5 years or more to grown enough roots to be self supporting and thats in a good year. Depending on the soil where you are and how big the tree was when you planted it and any number of other possibilities. It is still my recommendation to water more. Your problems are most likely due to being dry. Do not depend on automatic sprinklers or standing by the tree and watering by hand. You need a dedicated bubbler hear on your irrigation system to water trees or use a stationary sprinkler to water slowly. Unless the water stands around the tree for days after you water or the ground becomes soggy and stays that way for days after you water then you are not over watering. Water at least twice a week or more if you have thin soil or lots of rock in your area.