STARTING A VEGETABLE GARDEN IN JOHNSON CO
A new gardener should look in the expense of using Raised Beds. They make gardening a little easier because they are filled with clean [no weed seeds] soil. They only need to be 6¨ deep and 4 or 5 foot wide and 10 or 12 foot long. Leave walk ways between the raised beds. A new bed can be added each year.
If starting on a new in-the-ground site, soil not tilled before with grass growing there, spray the vegetation with a glyphosate “Round-up” type product to kill the vegetation. Then frame up the bed(s) and filled with sandy loam and composed cow manure and 21-5-10 commercial fertilizer at 2 lbs. per 100 sq. ft. surface. Example: 5’ x 12’ = 60 sq. ft. and 1 lb.
If choosing a new site on existing soil this is the recommended method: kill the vegetation with a glyphosate as above. Then using a rotary tiller go over the area to just break the soil. Then set the tiller at 1 inch and re-till the area. Continue tilling 1 inch deeper each time to maximum of tiller depth.
If the ground is hard and dry after killing vegetation use a lawn sprinkler to wet the ground to a depth of 6 to 8¨. Then is a day or two the soil will be dry enough that it will not stick to a hoe and ready to till.
You can rent a tiller. Always try to use a rear tine tiller; it is kinder to the operator.
When all the tilling has been done add 2 to 3¨ of compost to the area, then till it in. If composted cow manure is available put 1¨ over area and till it in. These amendments are asked for with each vegetable listed. The buildup of organic material helps to make the soil healthier and so much easier to work with. You will have less insect problems and a good yield that will make you a happy gardener.
Always locate your garden in full sun. Anything less then 6 hours will give poor results. A supply of water is very important. A close by outside spigot for a hose should be available.
Soaker hose are a good way to irrigate. Drip irrigation pipes with emitters every 6 or 8 inches is a better way to irrigate. Drip works under low pressure so a 10 P.S.I. regulator is required.
The system is not too expensive with good care it will last several seasons.
SOIL TEST INFO
This is also a good time to do a soil test on the soil in the garden plot to determine exactly how much commercial or organic fertilizer; sulfur or lime or organic material will be needed to get the Ph reading close to 7.0. Growing vegetables should not be tried without a soil test. So much depends on the condition of the soil and the only way to truly know is by a simple soil test. The main problem is sending your soil off early enough to have the time to correct any problems. When taking the test be sure and limit the soil to the garden area so the answer covers the vegetables site only.
The test package and directions is available in the Johnson Co. Extension office [101 N. Main St, Cleburne]. Follow directions and mail to Texas A&M Laboratory for the testing. There is a small charge for this.
You will be told what nutrients need to be added. It will explain your soils Ph. Is it acid or alkaline? Having the correct levels will help you grow the most per plant.
Soil Thermometer
To be more exact about planning times a soil thermometer should be used. Place the thermometer into the soil at planting depth for the particular you are considering and read the temperature. Do this about 7 AM for three days to see an average of temperature. Compare to the temps given below for planting time of the vegetables:
Use temp given or up to 5˚ degrees higher.
SPRING:
Beans 65˚ F
Cantaloupes 60˚ F
Carrots 40˚ F
Cucumbers 60˚ F
Eggplants 65˚ F
Okra 75˚ F
Peppers 55˚ F
Pumpkins 70˚ F
Radish 45˚ F
Southern Peas 65˚ F
Squash 60˚ F
Sweet Corn 50˚ F
Extra Sweet Corn 60˚ F
Sweet Potato 60˚ F
Watermelon 70˚ F
FALL:
Spinach * less then 75˚ F
Turnips * less then 80˚ F
Watering your Garden
A method to water tomatoes is the Texas Pot Method: dig a hole and place a one gallon pot without a bottom just outside the tomato cage. Leave 1to 2 inches of pot above the ground level. Fill pot with hose and water will soak in. [adding 1 T 21-0-0 every 3 weeks after first set of tomatoes.]
Buried pots also work well for squash, cantaloupes and watermelons.
Soaker hoses are best for the row crops. Water slowly and long enough to have the ground wet 4¨ below but not to run-off. Soil can be dry but for a day or two but not longer to keep the plants from being stressed.
Insects and Diseases
Look for grub worms while preparing your soil and control with insecticide available for them.
Aphids and plant lice are the number 1 insects to watch for. Control early with Neem oil, Malathion, Sevin or insecticidal soap.
Insects, worms, or caterpillars can be controlled with Bacillus thuringiensis, Bt, sprayed on the foliage. This is an organic product and works slowly but well if it is applied at first sign of problem.
Neem oil will slow down squash bugs if you begin to spray early when insects are young and soft bodied.
Control plant diseases; such as white rust, blue mold, downy mildew; with a good fungicide or Neem Oil. Some diseases can be presented by watering early so all foliage is dry by mid-morning.
We should never use more of a product, organic or chemical, then needed. Always start small and only do more if necessary. All leaves don’t need to be perfect! Picking off insects, and drowning them, can be very effective and satisfying.
Vegetables and Planting Dates for Johnson Co.
The choice of plants to use in Johnson Co. is based on the killing frost dates for spring and fall. Realize that Mother Nature might fool you some times but these dates are recommended.
February planting
- Sweet Peas – use smooth peas/seeds. Planting date Feb 15 to 22. But they are difficult as a spring crop and do better if planted fall, Sept 1 to 20.
- Potato, red or white – plant Feb 12 to 19
- Onions – 1st planting Feb 1 to 19. Always use slender transplants.
- Cabbage – plant 1st week of Feb. Always use transplants.
- Spinach – Feb 15 to 20. Use seed.
- Turnips – Feb 15 to 20. Use seed.
- Beets – Feb 20 to 27. Use seed.
- Broccoli – Feb 22. Use seed.
- Lettuce – Feb 20 to 28. Use seed and plant small amounts every few days for a staggered crop.
March planting
- Carrots – March 1 to 7. Use seed.
- Cauliflower – March 1 to 7. Use plants.
- Swiss chard – March 8 to 15. Use seed.
- Summer squash – March 29 to April 7. Use seed.
- Tomatoes – 4th week of March. Use transplants.
April planting
- Green Beans – 1st week. Use seed.
- Sweet Corn – 2nd week. Use seed.
- Squash, summer – 1st week. Use seed.
- Watermelons – 1st and 2nd week. Use seed.
- Tomatoes –1st week. Use transplants.
- Cucumbers – 2nd week. Use seed.
- Peppers – two weeks after tomatoes [peppers need warm soil].
- Cantaloupes – 2nd week. Use seed.
- Okra – 4th week if soil temperature is above 50˚.
- Black-eye Peas [Southern Peas] – 4th week if soil temperature is above 50˚. This also includes Purple Hulls, Crowder or Cream Peas, Improved Pintos.
May planting
- Okra – 1st and 2 nd week if soil temperature is above 50˚
- Black-eye Peas [Southern Peas] – 1st and 2 nd week if soil temperature is above 50˚ This also includes Purple Hulls, Crowder or Cream Peas
- Squash – 1st and 2 nd week. Use seed.
- Cantaloupes – 1st 2 nd and 2nd week. Use seed.
HOW TO GROW AND HARVEST A SELECTION OF THE COMMON VEGETABLES
OF JOHNSON COUNTY
Beets
- Plant early spring in amended soil. 2 to 3” organic matter and 1” cow manure deeply tilled.
- Fertilize with 10-20-10 evenly over area, 1 to 2lbs. over 35ft. row.
- Soak seeds in water overnight before planting and moisten furrow before planting. Thin to 2”.
- Mulch to help with weeds and moisture.
- Harvest beets when they are 2” in diameter. Growing longer, especially as it heats up, can cause them to be ‘woody’.
- Wash and store in refrigerator.
Cabbages
- Early Jersey and Wakefield good white varieties; Ruby Ball good red varieties; Savoy or Ace for savoy (wrinkled) style.
- Plant early spring in amended soil. 2 to 3” organic matter and 1” cow manure well tilled.
- Ph best 6.0 to 7.5
- Plant transplants 8 to 14” apart in raised beds with rows 36” apart.
- Mix starter solution, purchased as dry product that is mixed before using, and water each plant as set out.
- Water plant well next and protect well from excess heat or winds when planted in fall for winter growing.
- Mulching a good help to control soil moisture.
- Control cabbage loopers with Bt.
- Harvest the heads when heads have good color and are firm are a good size.
- Store cabbage in the crisper and use within 1 to 2 weeks.
Cantaloupes
- Good varieties Mission, Perlita and TAMU Uvalde from seeds
- Plant seeds when soil is warm and irrigate before planting the seeds to have good germination.
- Soil needs plenty of organic matter and aged manure tilled deeply.
- A row can be hills [slightly raised areas] 2 ft apart put the rows 6 ft. apart. Scatter 1 to 2 lbs. of fertilizer over 100 sq. ft. of garden.
- Mulch heavily before the plants start to run. This will keep the fruit off of soil for less chance of spoilage and helps maintain moisture.
- When vines start additional 21-0-0 is good.
- Mature fruit produced in 75 to 90 days. When mature it will slip from the fine.
- Harvest at “slip” time with rind has no green color.
- If melons fully ripe store in refrigerator. If not, store in a cool place till fully ripe.
Corn, sweet
- Sweet G90, Silver Queen, Bodacious.
- Corn is shallow rooted so soil needs to be improved but not deeply.
- Fertilizer 10-20-10 can do it after amendments tilled in.
- Plant corn in warm soil, end of March into April.
- 1 to 1½ inch deep at 4 inch intervals with rows 3 ft. apart.
- Keep well watered as they sprout and when 12 inches high pull extra soil over the roots to help control them falling over in windy times.
- Side dress with 21-0-0, 1” deep, 6” from stalk when one foot tall.
- As they grow again keep well watered. Moisture stress means the ear won’t fill out well.
- Mulching controls weeds and moisture.
- Earworms from a moth’s visit big are a problem. When silks form an insecticide can be applied to each ear every three days or use oil dropped on the silk every three days or just live with them and cut off the top bit when gathering the corn.
- Corn ready to harvest 18 to 24 days after the silks appear. Silks need to dry out.
- The best harvesting has the pot of water started as corn is shucked so it goes in immediately. Other wise leave in husk and chill immediately.
Cucumbers
- Plant in amended warm soil. 3 to 4” organic matter and 2” cow manure deeply tilled.
- They are heavy feeders so 21-0-0 can be added near but not next to the thinned plants.
- Mulch to keep moisture level up with frequent watering. Moisture stress causes bitterness.
- A trellis helps in finding the cucumbers before they get over size. Having off the ground also helps to keep leaves dry and stop fungus problems.
- Approved insecticide for control of insects gives you a better crop.
- Downy mildew can be controlled with fungicide.
- Harvest will be in 55 to 60 days. Choose size by type, pickling or eating, and store in refrigerator.
Sweet Peas
- Smooth style pea in spring and wrinkled seed for fall
- Plant early spring or for easier crop plant in September till 20th.
- Amend soil with organic matter and small amount commercial fertilizer. They will grow in most any soil.
- Use well tilled rows with 8 seeds per 12 “at 1 inch deep and the rows 4’ apart.
- Seeds should be inoculated with bacteria before planting to help in fixing nitrogen. Seeds also need a fungicide treatment before planting. This can be done by placing the fungicide and inoculate with peas in paper sack and shaking just before setting out the peas.
- Keep soil moist until seeds emerge, do not let the soil crust until plants are well emerged.
- Plants can have a short ‘fence’ to grow on.
- To harvest use both hands to hold the vine while pulling pod free. Choose pods that are shiny green and ‘fat’ with peas. Chill them immediately.
- Cook same day as picking [or freeze but not as tasty] so sugar does not convert to starch.
Southern Peas
- Black-eye, Purple Hull, Crowder, Cream.
- Amend the soil but peas can grow in less perfect soil.
- Ph does need to be 5.5 and 7.5.
- Plant treated seed to prevent seedling diseases.
- Plant in April ¾ inch deep and 4 inches spacing with rows 3 ft. apart.
- Water soil to damp condition for quick start.
- Southern peas are tough but can have insect problems. Watch and treat for your particular problem with correct insecticide.
- Plant rotation is important to avoid nematodes and some wilts. So records of where and when planted helpful.
- Pods are ready 70 to 90 days. The peas should be of good size in the pod. You can gather in the fresh stage and keep plant producing more pods or grow until they are dry and get one picking. Fresh pods need to be shelled within 24 hours and refrigerate the peas. Or shell dry beans and store in totally dry state in containers.
Potatoes: Red – LaSoda
White – Kennebec
- Buy certified seed potatoes. Eating potatoes should not be used for seed, they have been dipped in sprout retardants.
- Buy and cut a week before planting
- Cut them into pieces with at least 2 to 3 eyes and weigh 2 to 3 oz.
- Dust with sulfur and let cure, kept in area about 65˚
- Plant 2 to 3 inches deep; 12” apart; row 36” apart.
- When potatoes are 5 to 6” tall rake 3 to 4” more soil over the plant.
- Mulch to conserve watering and control weeds.
- Keep watered as needed; control insects
- At die back dig starting away from plant enough to not cut into any potatoes. Do not leave in sunlight more then a few hours.
- DON’T WASH – store in cool dark place with good air-circulation. Should keep many months.
- Some can be dug early for new potatoes early eating.
Okra
- Warm weather start means May or June to plant.
- Plant in amended warm soil. 1 to 2” organic matter and 1” cow manure tilled in should be enough.
- Watering soil and soaking the seed for 24hrs. can help with a faster start in soil temperature of 75 to 90˚.
- Okra will grow well in ‘dry’ land. So when watering do so deeply and not often. They do not like wet feet.
- Pods ready to cut should be in 70 days. Harvest when 3 to 4” long before they become woody.
- By rotating your crop you can miss having a nematode problem but you will have an ant problem. Fire ants seem to love blooms and young pods. Washing of aphids and their honey dew can help in their control. Dropping pods into water while picking and wearing gloves seems to allow you to get your fair share of pods.
- Harvest by rinsing off the ants and refrigerate.
Onions
- 1015 was developed by Texas A&M and grows very well. Red or White types do well also.
- Always plant transplants early February. Choose bundles with onions as thin as pencils.
- Till soil well with added compost and aged barn-yard manure.
- Rows should be hilled up 4 to 6” high and wide enough to allow for a shallow furrow on the top about 3” deep.
- Plant the onions in that furrow 4” apart and pull soil around the plant by hand.
- Mulching well in the lower areas and water in same area and keeping weeds pulled will allow for good growth.
- Harvest when tops fall over. Place in a shady area and let tops dry out. Store in dark place with good air circulation.
Peppers
- Grow in full sun.
- Use transplants, you can start seeds early or buy plants at nursery.
- Green Bells for large peppers; pimento for medium size; Jalapenos are very easy to grow including a milder TAMU Mild; other hot types could be Poblano, Cayenne, Serrano.
- Plant 2 to 4 weeks after tomatoes, they like warm soil.
- Space 2 ft. apart and rows 3 ft. apart.
- Peppers set fruit best when nighttime low is above 60˚ and daytime high is below 80˚
- Plants can have fungus problem, treat with fungicide.
- Pepper plants can be large enough to make use of cages but they can perform without one.
- Mulch plants well after improving the soil with amendments.
- Water by hose into 1 Gal. open ended pot to get the roots well soaked or use soaker hoses. Helpful to add 21-0-0 by pot method. Adequate water grows a thicker walled pepper. Keep foliage dry.
- Spider mites are a warm-weather problem. Yellowish areas on older leaves suggest you should check the undersides for microscopic spiders and treat with a miticide every three days following directions.
- They will bear until frost.
- Harvest when bells are 4 to 5” long. Jalapenos are harvested at 2 to 4” long. You can leave on plant till they are red.
- Store at 45 to 50˚ F.
Squash summer
- Plant in amended soil. 3 to 4” organic matter and 2” cow manure deeply tilled.
- Hill planting means just slightly raised area with 3 or 4 plants together. They do spread so mulch early, set out drip or soaker hoses or opened pots to water in before they start long vines.
- Squash Bugs can be a big problem so watch diligently and treat with approved insecticide.
- Plants blooming but failing to set fruits is a common problem and shows a lack of pollination all though the flowers might be all male. Wait for second batch of blooms and help the bees by pollinating yourself with a small brush between flowers.
- Harvest when squash are tender and not too large. Checking every other day is a must. They love to hide until they are tough and over mature fruit will cause the plant to stop producing.
- Keep squash in refrigerator.
Spinach
- Melody, Iron Duke, Hybrid 7 or Dixie Market seeds for winter crops.
- Bloomsdale for spring planting.
- Ph best 6.5 to 7.5
- Soil needs plenty of organic matter and aged manure.
- Plant in soil with a temperature of 75˚ or below and (fall) until 6 weeks before the air temperature drops to 20˚.
- Plant seed ½ “deep and thin small plants to 5”.
- Harvesting can be by removing larger outer leaves or pulling up the whole plant carefully cut off the plant 1” from the soil and let it grow back while enjoying the tops. A little extra fertilizer at this cutting helps with re-growth.
- Wash leaves thoroughly and store in refrigerator.
Tomatoes
- Desired transplants: Celebrity, Better Boy, 444, Carnival large fruited varieties and Roma for paste type.
- Minimum of 6 hours of sun.
- Well prepared soil tilled to 8” with amendments; 4 inches of organic matter and 2 inches of aged manure well tilled in with the addition of proper amounts of fertilizer needed.
- Mulched well after transplants set out.
- Plant after last average frost [March 26 for Johnson Co.] but well before high temperatures begin.
- Caged plants: cages made from concrete reinforcement wire to stand 4 to 6ft. high and 2 to 3 ft. in diameter are excellent. They will work for 15 years, at least. Wrapping the cages with commercial grade plastic wrap keeps them warmer and protects from drying winds. Leave on till late April. The cage can need extra staking to hold up-right if wind is a problem.
- Water can be applied in a half buried open ended 1 gal size pot. This is also a good way to add the fertilizer during growing season. Soaker houses can also work for deep soaking. Good watering gives more and better conditioned tomatoes.
- After tomatoes begin to set fruit 1 T of 21-0-0 or 15-05-0 should be used.
- Fungicides help control blights and buying VFN plants help fight verticillium wilt.
- Problem insects can be treated with Bt or hand-picking and dropping horn worms in a water bucket; foil or small pot around plant good to stop cut worms; pin worms can be controlled with Diazinon or Thiodon.
- Spider mites are a likely warm-weather problem. Yellowish areas on older leaves suggest you should check the undersides for microscopic spiders and treat with a miticide every three days following directions.
- They will bear until frost.
- Harvest tomatoes when red and still firm. If birds or grasshoppers are a problem pick when not fully ripe but showing pale red. Let ripen in house.
- Store ripe tomatoes in refrigerator.