Our next CHES Meeting (Community Horticultural Education Session) will be June 8th at the Somervell County Water District Offices, at 2099 County Road 301, Glen Rose. Kevin Taylor, General Manager, will be in charge of the program, and we will begin at 6:00 pm instead of the usual 6:30 pm. As always, this program is free and open to the public.
Homemade Weed Killer
by Joan Orr, Somervell County Master Gardener
If you have large areas of weeds that you want to get rid of, this recipe is for you. It will kill any vegetation it comes in contact with. Care must be taken to spray only the weeds you want to kill, avoiding spraying lawns and flowers.
1 gallon distilled vinegar
1-cup household salt
1 tbsp dish detergent
Spray bottle
Mix all ingredients in large kettle and heat over medium heat until the salt is completely dissolved. It is not necessary to boil the solution. Set aside to cool. Pour in spray bottle and get to work!
**Before you apply this weed-killer in your garden, here are some guidelines:
– This weed-killer is non-selective, which means that it will also damage/kill your desirable plants. So be careful when applying to weeds.
– Apply on a sunny day with NO wind. The sun helps the vinegar to dry out the weed. You also want to wait for a windless day so that your spray won’t inadvertently spray onto other plants.
– This weed-killer may or may not kill the root of the weed. You may need to reapply it if green growth shows up afterward or pour a little of the weed-killer over the root zone to thoroughly kill large weeds
So, next time you need to kill weeds, simply open your cupboard and make your own with vinegar, salt and soap. It’s natural, effective and cheap!
The Menace of Annual Bastard Cabbage
There once was a wonderful wildflower site near Aledo, Texas, along Iona road. It was a cattle-range field that I would drive past each spring to watch the glorious diversity of Texas wildflowers color the landscape in rainbows of bluebonnets and orange paintbrush, and a dozen other wildflowers all blooming in natural diversity.
One year I noticed stands of bright yellow pop up here and there – tall airy globes of yellow sparsely scattered in the acreage. The year after that the field was solid yellow; if there were other wildflowers, they were hidden under the onslaught of this one aggressive plant. While the kaleidoscope of Texas wildflowers normally run just a foot or two tall, in two short springs this field was taken over by Giant Mustard growing three to five feet tall and shading out all the native flowers.
It happened that fast, and it is happening all over Texas. Giant Mustard, Bastard Cabbage, Wild Turnip-weed — they are all the alter egos of the bully of the mustard family, Rapistrum rugosum, also known as RARU to the invasive plant hunters from its official USDA designated symbol.
This year has been especially splendid for the wildflowers, with huge stands of bluebonnets lining the roadsides. But in so many locales, the fields of deep blue are edged with tall borders of the airy yellow waist-high hedges of RARU. As the bluebonnets flourish, so do the invasives. However, the native bluebonnets disappear after their spring show. The RARU drops its seeds and develops a basal mat of dense leaves that out-competes native species and quickly forms a monoculture. With the ground well-mulched by the RARU rosettes, other seeds in the soil have no chance of germinating next year. The RARU wins.
What you can do
The easiest way to control RARU is simply to keep it mowed to prevent it making seeds. It is an annual plant which only lives one year; stopping the seeds from forming stops next year’s crop. If the stand of RARU has not spread too far, you can also remove the entire plant, including the tap root, to control it. In the late fall or early winter, the rosettes can be sprayed with herbicides. (Always use herbicides only according to directions.) Once the RARU is removed or killed in fall, over-seed with natives. Gaillardia/Indian Blanket is an especially a good choice for over-seeding against RARU.
If left uncontrolled, RARU spreads fast and far. Wherever the ground is disturbed, by new construction or wildfires, drought-stricken fields or parched lawns, road construction or laying new pipes, RARU seeds will take hold and block native grasses or flowers from germinating to fill the void.
We should all be on the lookout for this noxious plant and do what we can to eradicate it!
Source: Excerpts taken from an article published by NPSOT Invasive Crowds Out Wildflowers by Marilyn Sallee We should all be on the lookout for this noxious plant and do what we can to eradicate it!
Where Is The Next CHES Meeting?
Our next CHES Meeting (Community Horticultural Education Session) will be June 8th at the Somervell County Water District Offices, at 2099 County Road 301, Glen Rose. Kevin Taylor, General Manager, will be in charge of the program, and we will begin at 6:00 pm instead of the usual 6:30 pm. As always, this program is free and open to the public.
Deer! How to Deter Them!
by Shirley Smith, Somervell County Master Gardener
Deer. Ah yes, those beautiful, lithe creatures that seem to float across the landscape. Uh, NO! They eat ALL my beautiful plants down to the ground! If you are an avid gardener (or not) as I am, then the word “deer” is a four-letter word! They will eat almost anything – including occasional forays into the foods listed on our “won’t eat” list. How, you ask, can they be deterred?!
Springtime finds deer at one of their hungriest states: does are nursing their fawns and anxious to gain back weight lost during the winter’s freeze and every deer is looking to gorge on high-protein, moisture-rich plants. Don’t throw your hands up in utter despair; there is help (somewhat) to be had!
There are deer-defying sprays for our plants, such as rotten-egg and water, soap spray, hot-pepper spray, and many types of commercial sprays. Some folks even try to lure deer away by planting the animal’s favorite foods in a remote part of their property, far from gardens and flowerbeds.
Fences are the most effective technique to keep deer out. However, it needs to be at least 8’ tall, extend partly underground and not have gaps bigger than 6”x6” where a deer can squeeze through or crawl under. Enclose the entire garden or the deer will just go around the fence. Or try two 4- 5-foot high fences placed 3’ apart.
Planting the right plant is another way to discourage deer from visiting. Deer will steer clear of plants that are poisonous, fuzzy, coarse, spiny, bitter or very aromatic (lamb’s ear, barberries and cleome). You might want to plant more undesirable plants near the entrance of your gardens to further discourage “Bambi”. But if deer are unclear about liking something, they’ll try it, so even things they don’t like aren’t always safe from being tasted by the visiting deer. As a general rule, deer love to dine on anything that’s smooth, tender, and flavorful.
With wildlife biologists’ modest estimate of 18-24 deer per square mile, and full-grown adults each feeding on 6-10 pounds of greenery a day, the best line of defense lies in making your backyard less appetizing than your neighbors. Deer rely heavily on their sense of smell for feeding, so adding patches of strongly scented herbs – from garlic and chives, to mint and lavender – can mask the appealing aroma of nearby annuals.
Do you long for the sight of those beautiful yellow daffodils and tulips coming up in the spring? Well, so do deer. Instead, you might want to try something entirely different. There is a vast assortment of flower bulbs to which deer normally turn up their noses. For any number of lists, do an Internet search of deer-resistant bulbs. Trim tall grasses to deter deer from bedding down there. Deer aren’t avid climbers so adding terraces or sunken beds can discourage them from coming into the yard. As neophobes, deer fear new, unfamiliar objects. Though they aren’t always attractive, scarecrows, sundials and other garden ornaments – especially those with movable parts – make deer skittish. Use them in combination with wind chimes or bright lights for added effect. Place netting over your most cherished plants.
Some gardeners swear by hanging fabric softener strips and/or wrapped bars of soap from trees, both of which can confuse a deer’s sense of smell. Other’s point to using hot pepper sprays, garlic and rotten egg mixtures, ammonia-soaked rags, and bags of hair and/or blood meal around the garden for the same reason.
Relatively cheap and easy (that sounds just right!) when compared to putting up a fence, string a line of monofilament fishing line around your beds within the deer feeding zone – ideally 2’ to 3’ above ground. This clear, taut barrier also confuses deer, ultimately causing them to flee.
Having a dog (no matter the size) is also a good deer deterrent. Their scent and bark are natural deer repellents.
Sprinklers with sensors will spray on passing deer. The sudden sound and moisture sends deer back into the woods. Also, motion sensor lights have proved to be effective to keep deer away although over time they will get used to the light (argh!).
As you can see, there are any number of methods to be tried to keep the deer away from your prized plants. If one of these does not work for you, then try another.
Keep gardening!
Sources: This Old House “20 Ways to Keep Deer Out of Your Yard” by Danielle Blundell, This Old House Online and Tips for Deterring Deer, bhg.com.
My “Go-To” Plant, Spearmint
By Sheryl Kleinschmidt, Somervell County Master Gardener
My earliest recollection of spearmint is from my grandmother’s house in Central Texas when I was a little girl. My grandmother was a naturalist of sorts and taught me many important lessons such as how to forage non-poisonous mushrooms, how to identify wildflowers, and how to use mint to flavor my iced tea. From that time on, the mint plant has held a special place in my memory, and most of my adult life I’ve grown it in either a pot or in the garden.
The spearmint plant (so-called because the pointy leaves reminded someone of a spear) is not native to America but was brought here by early English settlers who acquired their mints from the Romans. There are some thirty species of mint, but since the mints are feisty plants, they interbreed quite easily resulting in many hybrids. (Hint: if you want your spearmint to remain pure, don’t mix it with other mints in the garden.)
All mint plants have a square stem with simple leaves in opposite pairs. They prefer semi-shade and rich, moist soil but adapt quite readily to lesser environments when necessary. Underground runners help this aromatic little plant spread quite rapidly and it can become a nuisance if not kept in check. It grows so prolifically in the state of Tennessee that it is considered an invasive weed there. Not so in other states where spearmint has become a cash crop. Some of the Northern Plains and Midwest states are selling mint to companies that use it for flavoring and medicinal uses. Thus, we have mint candy, toothpaste, gum, soaps, and shampoos, as well as medicines for stomach ailments.
Spearmint has played its part in American history as well as in the kitchen and medicine cabinet. Prior to the American Revolution, the colonists drank mint tea as opposed to black teas to avoid the dreaded English tax. And, during the Civil War, black tea was mostly unavailable, so Americans again turned to mint tea as a common beverage.
As far as my personal usage goes, I still use mint in my iced tea and sometimes put it in a cup of hot chocolate. If I need a quick breath mint, a chewed leave suffices quite well. My grandchildren are learning the difference between spearmint and lemon balm and enjoy tasting and smelling them in the garden. I hope I instill in them the love of nature/gardening as my grandmother did in me. I am also anxious to see if my lemon balm and spearmint plants will cross-breed this spring!
Other Uses For Eggshells
by Linda Heideman, Somervell County Master Gardener
While decorating eggs for the grand kids’ big Easter egg hunt next week, I was reminded that eggshells do more than just hold an egg together! I have tried these ideas, and they really do work!
1. Add crushed eggshells to the bottom of planting holes, especially for tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant. These crops are susceptible to blossom end rot, which is caused by calcium deficiency. While this deficiency is most often caused by improper watering, there’s no harm in making sure your plants have a steady source of calcium. As the eggshells break down, they’ll nourish the soil, and your plants.
2. Use eggshells as pots for starting plants from seed. Then plant the seedling, “pot” and all, into the garden.
3. Use crushed eggshells to deter slugs, snails, and cutworms. These garden pests are a real pain in the gardener’s neck, and cutworms are the worst, killing seedlings by severing the stems at soil level. All three of these pests have soft undersides, and dislike slithering across anything sharp. Crushed eggshells, applied to the soil’s surface, may help deter these pests.
4. Add them to the compost pile. If you aren’t planting tomatoes or trying to deter slugs, add the eggshells to your compost pile, where they’ll add calcium to your finished compost.
5. If you are feeding birds in your yard, crush up the eggshells and add them to a dish near the feeder. Female birds, particularly those who are getting ready to lay eggs or recently finished laying, require extra calcium and will definitely appreciate it!
No matter how you want to use them, be sure to rinse the shells out well before using them in the garden.
Master Gardener Training – Register NOW!
The next tri-county Master Gardener training registration ends Friday!
Classes will be held on Tuesdays from 9am-12pm and 1pm-4pm beginning March 31 and runs through May 26. Location of classes rotate between Glen Rose, Granbury and Cleburne.
If interested, please call the Somervell County Extension Office at 254-897-2809 and HURRY, registration ends Friday, February 27th!
Master Gardeners to Assist with Community Garden at new Papa’s Pantry Food Bank
Master Gardeners Donna Hagar and Shirley Smith met with Trey Sexton and Debi Bly on Wednesday, Feb 18 to begin formulating plans for the installation of a Community Garden located on the new Papa’s Pantry Food Bank Property.
Trey Sexton, a senior at Glen Rose High School has spearheaded this endeavor, already obtaining 501(c)(3) status as a non-profit organization. Trey then approached the Master Gardeners to gain assistance and advice for the planning and installation of the actual gardens.
Initial plans are for two 4 foot by 40 foot long rectangular raised bed gardens, which will be partitioned into 8 to 10 foot sections. Trey envisions various local organizations to adopt these sections of the garden to plant and grow fruits and vegetables with intentions to donate all or part of the produce to the food bank. Max Bly, current director of the Food Bank and Debi Bly, Secretary, are thrilled with the prospect of having fresh produce to offer their clients.
The Master Gardeners will adopt at least one section of the gardens and will be available to offer assistance and advice to other groups who would like to participate.
Future plans include several key hole gardens, trellis gardens and an extensive rainwater harvesting system.
My Favorite Plant – Nandina
by Merilyn Cranford, Somervell County Master Gardener
Nandina domestica, or commonly known as heavenly bamboo or sacred bamboo is my favorite plant. It is a species of flowering plant native to eastern Asia. Despite the common name, it is not bamboo but an erect evergreen shrub that can grow to as much as 7 feet tall.
In spring, the glossy leaves are brightly colored pink to red before turning green; old leaves turn red or purple before falling. Nandina’s flowers are white, borne in early summer in clusters held well above the foliage. The fruit is a bright-red berry which ripens in late autumn and is attractive to fall landscapes.
Although grown extensively in Texas due to its tolerance for dry conditions, some varieties are considered invasive. However, this is primarily due to birds spreading seed into natural areas where nandina proliferates and crowds out native species, both through seeding and by the growth of underground stems.
Nandina is widely grown in gardens as an ornamental plant and is hardy to heat and dry growing conditions. A true low-care plant, it needs no special care or pruning.
So through the aforementioned description, maybe you can understand why this plant is my favorite. Since it needs no special care in our hot, arid summers, and yet produces the most beautiful orange and red leaves in the fall, it holds a special place in my garden.
The next time you are shopping for a plant that needs no special care, consider adding Nandina to your landscape for that splash of color you need. HAPPY GARDENING!
Source: Wikipedia