Stephen Brueggerhoff, CEA – Horticulture, Brazos County AgriLife Extension; published 12/09/2025
All images unless otherwise noted by Stephen Brueggerhoff
Late fall brings expected weather with daily temps fluctuating between mid-50 to 60-degrees and hovering around the low 50s to upper 40s at night. Our experience as Brazos Valley residents informs us that local weather can appear to turn to bitter cold on a dime, and that predicting frost events can sometimes be like chasing rabbits. Our first frost can occur at any time between early to late November, with prediction for a first freeze in early December. While absolutes are comforting, we must be flexible enough to use an average of climatic data to be ready and now is a great time to gather materials and make plans to protect our landscape plants from frost and freeze events.
Frost and Freeze Defined
An accurate term describing the first event is radiative frost. Radiated light is collected on plants and other surfaces from the sun, and heat is lost to the atmosphere at night under a clear sky with winds clocking in at less than 4 mph. On a clear night, heat is lost quickly and plant foliage has the potential to cool steadily to a freezing point before sunrise. Mix this with high dew point and the plant’s foliage releasing moisture as it cools. The condensate has the potential to cool to the freezing point and crystallize into frost. Short duration frost may not have a detrimental effect on the plants, but a thick frost formed during a strong radiative event has increased potential to damage the foliage. Advective freeze events occur with steep plunges in temps and wind speeds more than 4 mph. This event can cause ice crystals to form and pierce cell walls within vegetative tissue. Thawing allows fluid to leak out of damaged cells and causes a burned look to leaf and stems.
Covering for Frost and Freeze

Our job prior to anticipated radiative frost or advective freezes is to trap as much heat as possible from the surrounding environment. We are slowing down heat loss just enough to prevent damage to plant tissue and with appropriate materials made of porous fabric like old bed sheets, blankets, burlap or frost cloth. The difference may be measured by a few degrees, but it will be enough to lessen the effect. Regardless of the material and as the ambient temp permits, uncover the plants during the day, allowing heat to accumulate, adequate oxygen exchange and increase sunlight exposure. Bringing containerized plants under a covered porch, combined with fabric covering may be enough protection for the plants during a radiative frost or short duration advective freeze.
A Few Degrees of Separation

It is always best to have a little bit of separation between the foliage and the material. Traditional methods include building a cold frame for protection of in-ground or low profile raised beds. These are literally miniature greenhouses, a wooden frame with a covered, hinged lid that can be opened during daylight hours. You can use bent PVC piping to create a hoop structure that will support the covering. The temp inside these structures generally remains 5 to 10 degrees above outside ambient temps.
You can also make a custom form out of chicken wire for low-growing, mounding plants, use an old tomato cage as a frame to hold up the fabric, or you may have to construct a frame out of wood and hog wire. The best method for covering shrubs or trees is to drape fabric material over the frame surrounding the plant and secure it at ground level to trap as much accumulated heat radiating from the ground as possible. Short end: no lollipop covering! You can also provide a little more insulation by thoroughly watering the soil ahead of these events, or even placing gallon jugs of water left out to warm under the plant coverings. For long duration advective freezes and with sensitive trees like most citrus, mound mulch about 6 to 10 inches at the base of the tree. You are covering the graft union to protect the business end of the tree for future resprouting if you lose the upper canopy. You can also wrap the trunk of newly established trees with a non-plastic insulation material from the ground up to lower branches.
Late Fall Planting, Bundle Up and Carry On
If available from local retail outlets, you can still transplant cool season ornamentals like pansies, snapdragons, dianthus and ornamental cabbage, as well as select woody shrubs and trees. Check out our Brazos County Master Gardener webpage txmg.org/brazos and choose the section How to Garden in Central Texas for lists of plants appropriate for seasonal gardening. You can also keep up with a list of 2026 education programs including our upcoming 2026 Texas Master Gardener training program. Bundle up, my friends, and as always, I look forward to seeing you in the garden.







