PLANTING BARE-ROOT TREES – Madeline Sullivan
When you are thinking about planting a tree you need to consider how big your tree will grow. Avoid planting under or near overhead utility lines, and check for underground utilities, too. Then, make your decision to plant a nice tree that will grow healthy and vigorous for the length of its natural life.
If you have a bare-root tree it is best to plant it immediately to keep the fragile roots from drying out. If for some reason you cannot plant the tree quickly because of the soil conditions or the weather, put the tree in a sheltered, cool place and keep the roots moist. Once you start to plant your tree, take off the packing and get rid of all the packing materials that are around the roots. Soak the roots in water three to six hours. Most important, do not let the roots get dry.
Now you can start digging the hole to plant the tree. Make the hole much bigger around than seems necessary, so the roots will have plenty of room to spread-out and grow. Get rid of all the grasses in a 3 foot circular area. Then, turn the soil in an area up to three feet in diameter. This is to aid in root growth. Hold up the tree and position it in the center of the hole. Make sure that the tree is at the same depth it stood in the nursery. After planting, the root flare must be above the ground level. Again not crowding the roots, partially fill with the soil that was dug from the hole. Firm it around the lower roots. Do not add anything, such as peat moss or bark. Put in the remaining soil, firm the soil, but not tight. Make a water holding basin around the tree. Give the tree plenty of water. Let it soak in. Then, mulch to a depth of 2-4 inches with organic material such as wood chips or bark pieces. Put the mulch in an area three feet in diameter around the tree, but do not let it touch the trunk. Generously water the tree every week or ten days, in dry weather, for the first year. Water slowly and do it at the drip line of the trees canopy.
A young tree’s best friend is mulch. It retains moisture, prevents grasses from getting around the tree, insulates the soil, prevents soil compaction, keeps down lawnmower damage, and makes an aesthetic look to a yard or street. In the spring, remove some of the mulch that may be three to four inches deep. Two inches is good around the tree until it is well established. One of the main errors in planting that cause bare rooted trees to die is planting too deeply. As mentioned before in this article the root flare must be above the level of the soil after the soil has had time to settle.
Time to Plant the Spring Garden by Chris Probst
Believe it or not, it is time to plant the first vegetables of the season. Those you plant this time of year will need to be cold hardy and able to withstand both frost and the occasional later than normal ice storm. If using the square foot garden method, it will be easy to protect the plants in the event of a cold snap. If not you need to plan ahead for how you will protect your plants in the event of extreme cold. Planting dates for most early vegetables is February 1 through March 15, but you should always read seed packets for specific directions.
Asparagus is a fun plant to have in the garden. Beds are prepared by deep tilling and amending of the soil with plenty of organic matter, such as composted leaves, four to six inches deep. When planting, lay asparagus roots one foot apart and cover with two inches of loose soil. Do not harvest your asparagus for at least the first two years. With proper care and in a suitable climate, an asparagus bed can last 15 to 25 years. Varieties recommended are Jersey Gem and Jersey Giant.
Beets are good to sow as soon as the soil can be worked. Beets can be grown in part shade and grow best in deep, well drained soil (8 – 10 inches). Mix organic matter into the soil to enrich it. Fertilize according to a soil test when plants reach four to six inches. Recommended varieties include Detroit Dark Red and Warrior.
Broccoli, Cabbage, Cauliflower and Brussels Sprouts do best in full sunlight when grown in sandy loam soils with lots of organic matter. They prefer soils with a pH of 6 to 6.5. For these vegetables, dig the soil deep (10 to 12 inches), then add a three-inch layer of organic matter, and turn the organic matter under the soil. Mix fertilizer into the soil two to three inches deep.
Carrots can, and should be, direct sown as soon as the garden can be worked. They will grow in some shade .You can make successive plantings until late summer. Place the carrot rows one to two feet apart. Varieties that do best in Texas include Big Shot and Cheyenne.
Collards grow best in cool weather and need as much sunlight as possible. They need a deep soil that is well drained and well prepared. The roots of a collard plant easily reach depths of two feet of more. Space transplants 18 to 24 inches apart.
Onions are a cool-season crop and can stand temperatures well below freezing. They may be planted from seeds, from small bulbs called sets, or from transplants. Onions grow best in full sunlight and well-drained soils. Plant onion transplants or sets ¾ inch deep and three inches apart.
Parsley requires 70 to 90 days from seed to a harvestable plant. Plant in late winter for spring and early summer harvest.
English Peas thrive at 50-60 degrees. Plan accordingly and get the seeds in the ground as soon possible, covering plants from hard freezes.
Potatoes are very easy to grow, but for best production, they need full sun. They do best in a loose, well drained, slightly acid soil. Before planting potatoes, work the soil into beds 10 to 12 inches high and 36 inches apart. For a spring crop, cut large seed potatoes into pieces weighing about 1½ to 2 ounces, about the size of a medium egg. Plant covering with two to three inches of soil.
Radishes prefer light, sandy loams with pH 6.5 – 7.0, but will tolerate a wide range of soil types. Radishes are one of the easies vegetables to grow and will produce a lot. Consider planting a few radishes several days apart, so your entire harvest is not ready at one time.
Spinach, Swiss Chard and Kale grow best in well-drained soil with lots of organic matter. They prefer full sunlight but will tolerate partial shade. They grow best when given plenty of fertilizer. Apply a general garden fertilizer such as 10-10-10. Mix fertilizer into the soil about 3 inches.
Turnips are a dual purpose crop. Varieties developed for root production can be harvested for greens. Royal Crown and Royal Globe are recommended for our area. Plant turnips in full sun and well drained soil.
If you would like to get a head start on your landscape and/or vegetable garden the time is nearing to begin your plants from seeds indoors. The amount of time needed for germinations differs from plant to plant but a good rule of thumb is 4 to 8 weeks. Check the seed packet for the amount of time needed for the particular plant or plants you are starting from seed.
Starting with a good quality, loose planting medium is the first step to success, and these are readily available at nurseries. You can mix your own but unless you will be needed a very large quantity, purchasing it premixed is probably your best bet.
There is a wide variety of seed starter containers that can be purchased and any of them will work fine. But, you can also use most any wood, metal or plastic container so long as it is clean and at least 2 or 3 inches tall. Other items to consider would be egg cartons or foam cups. Just be sure that whatever you use that there is drainage holes in the bottom.
Fill the container with soil. I like to dampen the soil before sowing seeds because it is very loose making it difficult to manage the seeds, especially very small ones, but that’s not necessary. If you are using the containers designed for individual plants, sow one or two seeds in each compartment. If you are using a large container such as a wooden box, sow the seeds about 2 inches apart. Cover each seed with just enough soil that it is not visible. The seed packet should have information telling the correct planting depth. Water gently so as not to wash away the seeds then cover with plastic wrap or place containers in plastic bags.
Most seeds do not need light to germinate but once they begin to emerge they will need full exposure light. However, temperature is very important during this period. Cool soil retards germination, so you want the soil to be around 70 – 75 degrees during the day and 60 – 65 degrees at night. If you only have a few, you might try placing them on top of your water heater… just don’t forget them.
When the first few true leaves appear the plants are ready to transplant. They are young and very tender at this point and have been in a controlled environment so it will be helpful to keep them shaded for 2 or 3 days to give them a chance to acclimate to their new home.
Starting seeds early is really great fun and so very rewarding as you watch the little seedling poke through the soil. I hope you’ll give it a try.
Turkey Bone Soup by Byron Chitwood
This soup reminds me of “Stone Soup”, a book that was written for children. If you have young children or grandchildren, be sure and get the book and read it to them. They will love the story and learn the value of sharing which is involved in the theme of the story.
When you carve a turkey, be sure and save all the bones to make this delicious soup. Also if you cut all the boney pieces off before you roast your turkey, save them too. All these can be frozen for later use in making soup. Another good idea is keep all the skin from the carved turkey for later use.
First, if you did cut the boney pieces and save them, you can either skin them or boil them with the skin on. Put all the bones in a large stock pot and cover with water. Bring to a boil and then simmer for several hours. Take all the solids out of the broth and strip and save the meat from the bones.
Throw all the fat and skin in a skillet and fry until crisp. Remove and drain the liquid fat. Then chop the crisp skin in to fine pieces.
Strain all the broth to remove any of the small bones that might have settled in the stock pot and then pour the broth back into the stock pot along with the bits of meat and crisply fried skin pieces. Taste of the broth and season with salt and pepper (both black and some red pepper flakes).
There is something lacking in your “bone soup”. It would taste a lot better if you added some of the following that you probably grew in your vegetable garden: Onions, carrots, potatoes, celery, turnips, parsley, Roi Tel tomatoes, garlic, cabbage or collard greens and whatever other vegetables that you have available. You can literally clean out the refrigerator when making “bone soup”. This soup goes best with cornbread. See below.
CORNBREAD
Put a 9X9 inch square skillet or equivalent round one in the oven set at 450 degrees F.
Mix 1 ¼ cup cornmeal with 1 cup white or wheat flour, two teaspoons baking powder and one teaspoon of salt. No sugar please!
Mix 1 ¼ cup buttermilk, 2 eggs, and ¼ cup cooking oil. If you have it, add some chopped dill weed, celery, cilantro and chopped jalapeno peppers (if you like your cornbread hot). Don’t add the jalapeno pepper if you are entertaining small kids. Stir until well mixed and pour into the dry ingredients. Mix them together.
Take the iron skillet from the oven and brush well with cooking oil. Pour the mixed ingredients into the skillet and place back into the oven. Bake for about 25 minutes and serve hot with the “bone soup”.
Read the book “Stone Soup” to your youngsters and then play act the story when making “bone soup”. The kids will love helping making the soup and they will also learn to love vegetables.
Nature’s Revenge by PJ LaRue Smith
Several species of poison ivy are listed under the Toxicodendron Mill. (Poison Oak) Genus, a member of the Sumac family. In the Hunt County area, the predominate type is eastern poison ivy. This form can be present as a low (6 to 18”), spreading “carpet” on the forest floor, as a climbing vine, or as a bush. All parts of the plant contain the allergy-producing chemical urushiol, with the heaviest concentrations located in it’s root system. Depending upon a person’s sensitivity, poison ivy dermatitis (rash) can appear anywhere from a few hours to 7 to 10 days after contact with the urushiol oil.
Poison ivy can be found growing in the woods, along fence rows, and in the yard. It can sprout from seed (waxy white clusters of berries), aboveground vines, rhizomes, and root crowns. Seeds are dispersed by animals and birds, and, as they are buoyant, via waterways as well. Birds and animals partial to poison ivy berries are also fans of hackberry, juniper, Virginia creeper, and blackberries as well.
Many myths abound when it comes to poison ivy. Myth – Poison ivy is contagious: Fact – Urushiol is an oil, remaining on clothes, shoes, tools, etc. and transferrable until removed with soap and water. Myth – One can “get” poison ivy by simply being near the plant: Fact – Urushiol must come in contact with the skin in order for dermatitis to occur. This can happen through direct contact with the plant: secondary contact with an object, person, or animal that has been in contact with the plant; and airborne contact due to burning the plant or during mowing, weed-eating, etc. (Note: For those who are highly susceptible to the affects of urushiol, smoke inhalation can result in a life-threatening situation requiring immediate medical assistance.) Myth – Don’t worry about dead plants, they are harmless: Fact – Urushiol oil can exist on a surface, including dead plants, for up to five years. Myth – Someone who has “rolled in poison ivy” with no allergic reaction is “immune”: Fact – Upwards of 90% of people are allergic to urushiol, the number of times exposed and the length of exposure are key factors in developing the allergy.
Protecting oneself from coming into contact with urushiol has several components. Educating yourself on what the plant looks like in ALL seasons is the first element. One of the first to leaf out in the spring, poison ivy is also one of the first to turn orange or red in the fall. Check out the vines growing up that tree you’re about to lean on – does the vine have fine hair-like roots growing from it (poison ivy) or is it smooth (grapevine)? Are the leaves in sets of three (poison ivy) or sets of five (Virginia creeper)?
Prepare for potential exposure by wearing long sleeves, boots, socks, pants, gloves, glasses/goggles when hiking or doing yard work. Products, such as Ivy Block®, create a barrier between skin and oil, however, taking a shower after exposure is still required to prevent urushiol transference to other objects or unprotected skin.
The longer urushiol remains on the skin, the greater the potential for reaction. If exposure is likely, follow these steps to minimize the risk of an allergic reaction: 1. Wash all tools thoroughly with soap and water. 2. Remove all clothes, shoes/boots, gloves, sunglasses, belts, cell phones, etc. in the garage, or mudroom (wash everything with soap and water before using/wearing again). Wash hands in soap and water, then head to the shower. Poison ivy washes, such as Tecnu®, can remove urushiol that has been absorbed into the skin. Soap and water will remove oil that remains on the surface of the skin.
It is essential that everyone follow these procedures in a household, even when not allergic themselves, in order to protect those in their family (and visitors) that are sensitive to urushiol. Vehicles are also a vector of contamination, and should be washed down accordingly as well.
If a reaction does occur, seeking medical attention as quickly as possible will shorten the time of discomfort. Once a person has become sensitized to urushiol, each subsequent exposure will result in a swifter, more pronounced allergic reaction. Taking precautions can certainly make “nature’s revenge” less vengeful!
From needles to trunk, the pine tree (a member of the Pinaceae family) benefits man in a multitude of ways. To gardeners, the smell, symmetry (or lack of, in some cases), and it’s status as an evergreen, provides the incentive to grow this stately tree in their landscape.
While there are many varieties of pine available for use in the garden, the focus in this article will be on the Loblolly pine (Pinus taeda), a native Texas variety that is commonly grown in the Hunt County area.
The optimum growing conditions for the NATIVE loblolly pine are full sun, moderate moisture, neutral to slightly acidic loam or sandy soil. However, through years of research and specialized hybridization, the Texas Forestry Service has developed hybrid loblolly pines that are more tolerant of drought and are able to grow in a variety of soil types. With minimal care, these hybrids are capable of growing as much as 2 – 4 feet per year. An added plus, as noted by this author, is the perfume-like fragrance some of these hybrids produce.
What other benefits can one gain from growing pine trees? For the gardener, there is the added benefit of “pine straw” (needles) that fall in the autumn/winter months that can be used as a mulch for the garden. Pine straw mulch increases soil acidity (to a degree) in certain soils and, unlike pine bark, pine straw will not “float” away as easily during a heavy rain. Another added benefit arrives in spring when the worm population infiltrates the pine straw – loads of worm castings! The benefits of pine straw use in the garden has brought about it’s harvesting into bales in east Texas and other southern states.
At this time of year, another benefit of the pine can be found as Christmas decorations everywhere –pine cones. A favorite collection item for both children and adults alike, the pinecone has many uses. It’s seeds can be germinated for more locally acclimated pine trees. Dry pinecones make a great fire-starter. And, as mentioned above, they are used in making homemade crafts for the holidays.
As a pine grows, the lower limbs often will die back so that the tree can focus it’s energy to the newer top-growth. If these lower limbs are removed soon after they die back, they can be made into fairly decent walking sticks or canes. If a mulching machine is available, limbs and twigs can be also be mulched and used in the garden or added to the compost pile.
Pine trees that are no longer of use in the landscape, are overcrowded, or that meet an early demise due to an ice or snow storm (i.e. winter of 2000) can either be sold or taken to a sawmill for harvest into boards.
Interested in reforestation of an area? There are several sources for purchasing large quantities of young pines at minimal expense available. Visit the Texas Forestry Service website or contact them directly via the number listed there for further assistance on pine tree sources or questions on reforestation.
Creating Beautiful Christmas Wreaths by DeAnna Hambly
Traditionally, the hanging of the Christmas wreath on the front door is one of the first events signifying the Christmas season. Many people also hang wreaths on the outside windows of their home or over a fireplace. Readymade wreaths can be purchased at almost any retail store, but before you purchase yours, consider creating your own wreath with simple items found around your home and from your garden. Making homemade Christmas wreaths is an inexpensive activity that takes very little time and effort. It’s also a great way to bring the entire family together for a fun and memorable activity.
Probably the most common type of wreath is the classic circular or ring type-decorated with flowers, ribbons, and other materials. One advantage of making a homemade wreath is that you can vary the shape to suit your own personal taste. The variety of ways to create wreaths are versatile and endless. To begin, pick a theme; country, classic, or formal, and then gather the necessary items to craft your wreath.
Many simple garden items can be used to create homemade wreaths. For instance, seed pods, from a sweet gum tree (glued together), or dry twisted grape vines can be used to form the ring. The rings can be decorated as they are for a more natural look, or they can be spray painted, glittered, or wrapped with ribbon to give them a more formal appearance.
You can also use evergreen, euonymus, and holy berry leaves. Things such as pinecones and pomegranates can also be used to decorate your wreath. Almost any plant leaves, flowers, or fruits from your garden can be used, however, their use may be limited if you have allergies. If you have pets, be sure to check with your Veterinarian before using some types of garden materials. For a fresh smelling wreath, try snipping branches from your live Christmas tree to add to your wreath. The wreath will compliment your live tree, and you’ll enjoy the wreath’s holiday fragrance.
Other items you’ll need to craft your homemade Christmas wreath are scissors, glue, a glue gun and glue sticks, spray paint, glitter, newspaper, and ribbon. Customize your wreath by adding Christmas ornaments or family souvenirs to them.
Creating homemade Christmas wreaths is an inexpensive and fun activity the whole family will enjoy. For a fun get together with your friends, consider inviting your them over during the holidays for a wreath decorating party. Each person or family supplies their own decorating items and the host or hostess supplies the base for the wreaths. Serve refreshments, and consider giving an inexpensive prize, such as a dated Christmas ornament, to the person, couple or family with the “best” crafted wreath. And don’t forget, wreaths also make great gifts as well.
You’ll find more detailed information on how to make a Christmas wreath by visiting your local craft store or the Internet. For gardening information visit the Texas AgriLife Extension office at 2217 Washington Street in downtown Greenville, Texas.
There are many different plants that can be planted as cover crops in a vegetable garden. The main purpose of these crops is to add nitrogen to the soil, be used as a green manure, control erosion and as a control for weeds.
Plants that add nitrogen to the soil are commonly referred to as legumes. Legumes form an association with soil borne bacteria to capture atmospheric nitrogen. Some of the legumes are alfalfa, all of the clovers, vetch, beans and peas. Alfalfa loves deep soil such as that found in “bottom land”. It puts down roots as deep as 20 to 30 feet and in some cases deeper. The roots transport minerals from these depths to the top growth. When properly harvested and cured, alfalfa is outstanding cattle, poultry and rabbit feed. It has been stated that an acre of alfalfa can capture 250 pounds of nitrogen from the air. It will come back year after year. The vegetable gardener will want to plant alfalfa as a fall crop and then turn it under in the spring. Crops planted for this purpose are called “Green Manure” and are especially beneficial to the soil without the inherent problems associated with animal droppings.
All of the peas and beans such as English Peas and green beans are legumes and add nitrogen to the soil. Green beans get along with about everything else grown in a vegetable garden except onions, garlic and fennel. They are my favorite cover crop for spring, summer and fall plus the gardener gets the benefit of their production. After they have quit producing, the plants should be pulled, shredded and either tilled back in the soil or added to the compost pile.
English peas can be planted as early as February 10 through March 1 in the spring garden and as late as all of September in the fall garden. Not many vegetables out of the garden can beat the taste of English peas. After the peas pods have been harvested, shred and turn the plants back into the soil.
Southern peas such as purple hulls should be planted April 1 through May 20 for spring gardens and during August for the fall garden. There are many other varieties of peas and beans that can be planted for their crop bounty as well as soil builders.
There are other crops other than legumes that can be planted for soil protection and as green manure crops. Some of them are annual rye grass, buckwheat, oats, rape and winter rye. All of them are annuals meaning that they have to be reseeded every year if you desire some of their benefits. These crops act as cover crops. Winter rye should be planted in the late summer. It is winter hardy and grows well in the early spring. It should be tilled under before planting spring vegetables.
There is a wealth of information available on the internet pertaining to cover crops. Also two books that contain information on the subject are Rodale’s “All- New Encyclopedia of Organic Gardening” and Louise Riotte’s “Carrots Love Tomatoes”.
After the first killing frost and freeze, most of the fall gardening is over with. The exception might be some of cool hardy crops such as collards, cabbages, broccoli and chard. The rest will have frozen and is ready to be pulled to get ready for the coming spring crops.
Pull all the frozen vegetable plants and put them in the compost pile or container. For quicker and more thorough composting, run a lawnmower over the ones with stems such as green bean and okra plants. If you suspect that your tomato plants had a disease, these should be destroyed or placed in a garbage container destined for the landfill. Some tomato diseases remain dormant in the plants until the next year and might infect your spring crop. There are too many tomato plant diseases to elaborate on them in this article.
Clean all the sticks and stones from the surface of your garden. Then place a layer of leaves over the portion of the garden that does not have any surviving vegetables such as collards. Till the leaves under and rake the bed smooth. If we have a wet winter, most of the leaves will compost before the next planting season. Do this every year and your garden soil will become very mellow and have good “tilth” or be very crumbly and friable.
If you do not have a compost pile or container, just dig a trench in your garden about two feet wide and half a foot deep. Then place the plant material that you have pulled and recover it in the trench. This material will compost during the winter. Also, during the winter months, bury your kitchen waste such as all vegetable matter, fruit peels, and coffee grounds in your garden area. Weeds that pop up in flower beds should also be buried in the garden. You might want to ask your non-gardening neighbors to save their kitchen scraps for you. Then reward them in the spring with some fresh vegetables.
During the winter months, there are some weeds that germinate and start to grow in your garden area. Don’t let these get too far ahead of you. Keep them hoed and turned under, especially the winter grasses.
You might want to plant a cover crop to prevent erosion and add back some fertility and vegetation to your soil. However, this is a subject for another article that I hope to complete soon.
Allergies and the Gardener by PJ LeRue Smith
How many gardeners have expressed this sad lament, “I love the outdoors, but it sure doesn’t love me back!” Allergies have long been the bane of many a gardener, many of whom would like to spend more time in the garden, but when they do, suffer miserably with sinus congestion, watery eyes, and sneezes galore. (more…)
